New to me Farmall 706 repairs?

tractorsam

Well-known Member
I recently acquired a 1966 Farmall 706 with the D282 diesel. I originally bought it for the IH 2000 loader and ice chains but think I'm going to fix the tractor, which amongst other things desperately needs engine attention, and I have a few questions. I have a little experience with the D282 engine after doing some work on a D236. So far the PTO and power steering both seem to be fully functional, and the left brake is great, the right brake however barely has any effect, these are hydraulic actuated brakes that are meant to be dry or wet? The TA handle moves but doesn't produce any result, the tractor also doesn't freewheel in either position, does the tractor have to be running to adjust or can I do it while I have the engine out? I need to go through the shift linkage as it's quite sloppy but that should just be a case of getting rid of the wear and free play? Finally, the park brake seems to 'slip' some times, others it seems fine - any ideas? Thanks, Sam
 
1. brakes are hydraulic actuated and dry. if the o rings or seals leak oil onto the linings, they will not stop very well and will make a grinding/growling sound when applied.

2.TA is hydraulic, the adjustment is in the linkage. look in the archives for tractor vet's instructions on ta/dump valve/ clutch adjustment. you need the engine running for dump valve adjustment.

3. the shift linkage does wear, lots of places that all add up. nothing that new parts won't fix.

4. the park brake isn't a brake as such, it is a pawl that engages between two teeth on the reverse gear. if it "jumps" the tip of the pawl could be worn/broken off. a rhythmic knocking sound when driving in reverse suggests someone knocked a tooth off the reverse gear by dropping it into park while rolling.
 
No noise from the poor brake so I guess I'll pop it apart and see what there is to be seen. I'll have to do the adjustments after the engine then. No odd sounds in reverse, can just the pawl be replaced and if so, is splitting necessary? Thanks, Sam
 
I&T IH 32 manual is your friend(it tells almost everything). Someone will be along to correct me if I am wrong. The shifting linkage can be checked and some adjustments made without engine. Just be sure the tractor is firmly blocked/held up when bouncing around with it split( don't want that falling on you). Be sure to check the linkage that goes though the trans. covers. Had HI-LO-REV go out on ours(706 w/263gas), the shifting fork broke. Then a few months later the pin that goes through the cover. The T/A problem might be in the valve body that controls the T/A. If you decide to replace the T/A unit that involves stripping down the entire Transmission. If the actual braking mechanics are good, check that valve unit, replaced that too on ours at one time.
 
The park could be teeth missing on reverse gear. I would investigate that and see first. Its a lot of work to replace and you have to pull the cover under the foot board to find out. Between that and a engine overhaul you might find it cheaper to buy a tractor in better condition.
 
They're an uncommon tractor in my area and for what I paid for the package the tractor was near to free. I had intended to part it out but I think it's too good. The park brake holds except on the steepest of grades. Thanks, Sam
 
If the tractor does not free wheel in either TA position there is no amount of adjustment that is going to make any difference. The tractor no longer has a TA in it. It may still have the controls but the innards have either been swapped out or some one welded the clutch plates together. If the clutch plates are welded you only have the low speed instead of the high side of the TA.
 
It will free wheel if worn enough, ours did that's how I know about tearing down the transmission (my earlier post) to replace it. Just did that last winter, with overhaul earlier this fall.
 
a hydraulic TA shouldn't freewheel at all unless the low side clutch is out. but OP said moving the lever makes no difference, so it could be in TA or DD and not shifting- linkage waaaay out of adjustment, something seized or disconnected, etc.

course, you could be right, but that's not a given from the information available here.

to the OP: try tow starting it--just for a few yards. if you can turn over the engine at all, the TA has been welded or replaced with a a shaft. if not, there are either mechanical or hydraulic problems.

as for fix it vs part it out vs sell it- i figure it comes down to what you need. personally, i would fix a tractor like that to keep and use. i would likely have more in repairs than it is worth, but not more than the value of the work it can do in the long term. but you won't come out ahead to fix it and sell it, not if your time is worth anything at all.
 
I will try towing it on its way into the barn and see what happens. Watching the linkage when I move the TA handle most of the motion appears to be lost in free play. I am familiar with having more in a tractor than it's worth but it's still cheaper than therapy and a better return on investment than drinking! Thanks, Sam
 
I had 1466 that did what you describe in park. take floor platform and see if trash and crud is on top of trans and won;t let linkeage move down properly. easy fix if that is what it is.
 
the TA control valve is located in the MCV housing- on the left side of the tractor right below the steering pilot valve. when in direct drive, the spool should be down, with its snap ring contacting the housing. in TA, it should be all the way up with shiny polished steel exposed.
 

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