Farmall M trying to get unstuck

I’ve got a 1943 Farmall M Im trying to bring back to life after years of sitting outside. I ve got the shifter working freely and the motor free after weeks with marvel mystery oil kerosene and trans fluid in the cylinders, and a bar thru the belt pully rocking every now and then but the pulley only turns a quarter turn and stops either way, stops hard. Fluid leaks out of the spark plug holes (plugs are out) so the pistons are moving well, but what could that mean? Thanks
Eric Allen
 
to isolate the issue, push down the clutch and block it down with a short 2X4 or similar. Now try the pulley. If the pulley now turns freely, we now have isolated the issue to the engine. Rust and debris can get on top of pistons and prevent full rotation. Use a coat hanger wire bent like a hook to "feel" in each cylinder when the piston is up near the top, to see if you can rake out crud. Blowing compressed air may blow the rud into the intake manifold (not good). Looking into the cylinder with a bore scope, or fiber optic will also work to assess the chamber.
There are ledges (squish zones) that become only as thick as the head gasket.
Do not force the engine.
If the engine still turns with the clutch down, and the pulley locks as before, the clutch disk is stuck to the Flywheel (common in a system not used for a long time). If it is in the engine, and nothing seems to get it free, pulling the head may be the only solution. Jim
 
It means you need to pull that head and pan. The liners must be rusted up enough in spots that it is binding.

I've also had a car with a quarter turn "rock" in the crank. It was because a bearing tried to spin on me and elongated the peg hole. I drove it that way for years.

I'd be pulling that engine apart. It you try to make it work you are going to end up breaking rings.
 
Pull the valve cover to check if a valve has stuck open,you can t turn it over if a valve is hitting the piston.
 
Sounds like the mix is not working for it. I only use ATF and have for years and most engines free up. The fact it turns some then stops means either the valve are stuck or you have rust ridge that your mix will not remove. Wick what you have in it out then FILL with ATF and also pour ATf down the exhaust and walk away for a week by he way before pouring it down the exhaust put the plugs back in. Then after a week use a 12 volt battery pull the plugs and use short fast taps on the starter button and I bet it frees up. Dextron ATF
 
bought a farmall cub, engine was loose.got it home and was getting ready to start motor. added water to radiator and then after a day or 2, the engine would turn about 1/2 round. started tearing things off of motor and discovered that # 2 cylinder was rusty, near the top, enough to stop piston. sigh
 
The crazy thing I really cant understand is for all the years it has sat there I’ve turned the engine a little once or twice a year to keep it free, and a couple years ago I tried starting it, and it turned over and over with a battery, but the carb float was stuck open(fresh gas from a separate tank) and it wouldn't start, and there was haying to be done, so I walked away, and the next time I tried it 6 months or so later it was stuck, I cant understand what even stuck when it hadn’t in those decades of sitting. Does that ring any bells? I simply don’t have time or resources to tear the head and pan off, for me it's either this or nothing unfortunately, I know that seems to be a cop out but it's all I have the ability or money to do, I don’t even have anywhere indoors for it to be worked on unfortunately. I hate to think I caused this but must be I did somehow. Thanks,
Eric
 
Carb float stuck causes cylinder wash down so lack of oil to the rings causes lock up due to no oil and condensation. As I said FILL it up with ATF plugs and exhaust and let it sit a while
 
Rain water may have entered the engine through the exhaust causing the stuck engine. Do what Old suggested using ATF. Make sure you have enough antifreeze or drain the engine and radiator until next Spring. Hal
 
(quoted from post at 19:46:02 11/25/14) Pull the valve cover to check if a valve has stuck open,you can t turn it over if a valve is hitting the piston.

I agree with 504. Most likely a valve hanging up.
 
Yeah, you just as well pull the head and see what is wrong. If for some reason the cylinder walls need to be oiled???? then ATF will work just fine. It sounds like you have a lot of rust in the top of a cylinder, will an M open a valve far enough for a piston to hit it? Either way, squirting oil at it(or SwissMiss Hot Cocoa, even with the optional mini-marshmallows for that matter) isn't going to fix the problem.
 
I have seen mud daubers build nests on the bottom side of the head inside a cylinder after getting down the exhaust or a rust hole in muffler. Nest compacted so tight between piston and head it wouldn't turn over all the way. Wasn't a Farmall m, but hey, you never know. Look in the plug holes with a flashlight. Ross
 
I had mice fill the number 2 cylinder on old 930 case with wheat thru the exhaust manifold, pulled manifold, removed valve cover and tightened down pushrod for valve, made adapter for shop vac, and sucked out about a quart of wheat, replaced bent pushrod, and she has been running great for the last 15 years.
 
Thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted on how it goes, for now I'll add atf, and in the spring I'll try to get the exhaust apart so I can check the valves and maybe get the head off, I sure envy you guys with shops! Thanks,
Eric
 
I tried that, and it was stuck, but it didnt change anything, possibly I mistook that for the problem the first time I tried it, but it's not the problem now, I wish... Thanks though
Eric
 

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