Super H carburetor

I have a 53 farmall super h and its carb won't stop flooding. It ran good then I bought it, then i installed a rebuild kit in it and it started floating. Within 30 seconds of turning on the valve on the sediment bowl, gas comes pouring out from under the choke flap. I took it to the local carb shop and they cleaned it all out and put new bushings in it, but it's still flooding. Does anyone have any ideas on what's happening? Or if I can fix it?

The float tab that pushes the needle into the seat to control level can have a wear dent in it causing the needle to jam, or cock sideways a little. Flattening the tab, and adjusting the float is one solution. some require a touch of non lead solder applied to the tab, then flatten with abrasive paper on a popsickle stick to renew. Jim

I'll 2nd Jim N's advice! A wear-caused dimple in the float tab combined with a new, unworn needle can cause the float needle to stick open.

I've had good luck gently sanding then polishing the top of the tab until the dimple is gone. Then reset the float level.

A few other possible causes:
- A piece of junk (bit of teflon tape, etc) caught in the needle seat
- An ill-fitting float needle (I've had new ones from a rebuild kit with the point off-center so it absolutely WOULD NOT seal)
- A slightly bent float hinge so the pontoon rubs/hangs up on the side of the bowl.
- Pin hole leak in a pontoon.

Good luck! The Super H carburetor is pretty simple and is straightforward to get working right.

I've narrowed it down to the float,?I believe, because it floods even with the old needle, and this all started happening after I bent the float to the specs that came with the rebuild kit.

The fact that you told us a rebuilder "put new bushings" in it causes me some concern as to your understanding of a carb. No way any bushing controls fuel flow is there.?
That said. please explain in detail how you "set the float level" Float hanging down, or carb inverted and float in bowl. Measurement from where to where? Did you use a tape measure or a engineer scale or steel gauge? I think you are way off on the float setting.

(quoted from post at 20:04:17 11/22/14) I'll 2nd Jim N's advice! A wear-caused dimple in the float tab combined with a new, unworn needle can cause the float needle to stick open.

I've had good luck gently sanding then polishing the top of the tab until the dimple is gone. Then reset the float level.

A few other possible causes:
- A piece of junk (bit of teflon tape, etc) caught in the needle seat
- An ill-fitting float needle (I've had new ones from a rebuild kit with the point off-center so it absolutely WOULD NOT seal)
- A slightly bent float hinge so the pontoon rubs/hangs up on the side of the bowl.
- Pin hole leak in a pontoon.

Good luck! The Super H carburetor is pretty simple and is straightforward to get working right.

Click to expand...

Add one more cause. If the bowl gasket is installed upside down it will cover the bowl vent. Without a vent the incoming fuel just pushed out the metering tube before the needle and seat are closed.

(quoted from post at 02:33:03 11/23/14) The fact that you told us a rebuilder "put new bushings" in it causes me some concern as to your understanding of a carb. No way any bushing controls fuel flow is there.?
That said. please explain in detail how you "set the float level" Float hanging down, or carb inverted and float in bowl. Measurement from where to where? Did you use a tape measure or a engineer scale or steel gauge? I think you are way off on the float setting.

Click to expand...

I had the throttle bushings replaced in the carb because they were bad.
I measured(with a Vernie caliper) from the bottom of the top half of the carb to the top of the float(float up and float down) and bent to get the right measurements per the the instructions that came the the rebuild kit. I didn't level my float and I have a feeling that's where my problem is.

Somebody on this forum once said his float touched the sides of the carb, and he had to Dremel the sides smooth, then had to make sure the float didn't slide side-to-side enough to touch. It's touchy.

(quoted from post at 02:48:27 11/23/14) Somebody on this forum once said his float touched the sides of the carb, and he had to Dremel the sides smooth, then had to make sure the float didn't slide side-to-side enough to touch. It's touchy.

Click to expand...

The guy who used a dremel tool did not know what he was doing. Yes, those double floats CAN rub the sides of the bowl, but only when the floats are not straight with the arm. I've encountered the issue a few times myself. All it takes is a little gentle massaging of the floats and all is well again. I have had to "tweak" both brand new floats as well as the used float that just came out of the carburetor.

Be very careful if you do this. The float is soldered together. I found that out on a green machine.

I have a Super H and have the same problem. I've
had the carb apart 7 times and this last time I
thought, I finally got it. Here is how I tested
it. I had the carb all back together, turning the
carb over in my hands, upside down and right side
up, I could hear the float move. then, I held the
carb in my hands upside down and I blew into the
gas line connection and I couldn't blow any air
in, meaning that the needle was seated. Then I
turned it over and blew again and air would go
through telling me that the needle had released. I
put it all back on the tractor and gas is still
pouring out from the choke butterfly. Maddening to
say the least. I'm going to take it all apart
AGAIN and see if I can figure out why it won't
shut off. I haven't checked the float, maybe it
sinks

That dual float can be real sensitive to a little alignment problem. After having a comeback many years ago with a major flooding problem, I acquired an old carburetor and cut the bottom off the bowl. I use that on all of those style carburetors to check to make sure float clears all insides. You don't have to have that but it makes it easier. Also, make sure the float cannot move side to side by bending the pivot support for minimal side clearance and both floats are square with the world. You can check the actual fuel level if you want by putting a barb in the drain plug hole and a length of clear plastic. The fuel should level out at near 5/8 inch from top of bowl.