International B-275

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Yesterday I tried starting my tractor after winter storage.My battery was deficient and would not fully crank the engine.I tried charging but would not hold a charge.I purchased a new battery and then tried.My glow plugs would not heat up and I couldnt even get a sound out of trying to start it.Im wondering if I have a starter or starter solenoid problem.How can I check to see if this is my problem?Any and all comments/suggestions are welcome.
 
glmpa: I doubt it you have enough battery. These were designed as a two battery system. Even though battery technology has improved, I still doubt there is any one battery that will give cranking amps of the old two battery system.
 
Not trying to start an argument here, but I've got several B-275 diesels, as well as B414s and a 3414. All with single batteries and all will crank fine, even when it's 0 degrees F outside. Not the greatest starting tractors, but the engines are small enough where it does not need a lot of battery power or dual batteries. Starter can draw 450 amps max. I'll add that the later B-275s with the rotary CAV injection pumps start much better then the early B-275s with the inline, air-governor CAV pumps. I have a small car battery (from a Subaru) in my late-model B-275 and it cranks and starts fine in cold weather. On my early B-275, I have a big single battery - the same as the early Dodge Cummins trucks use - and it too works fine. It needs the bigger battery since, to start that tractor, a lot of cranking needs to be done. NAPA # 7235 is more than enough. It's a 31P type battery.
Considering the age of the tractor, I don't know if it still has original wiring or not. I changed all mine. If your tractor is original, all the battery power from the battery, connects to the rest of the system via the post on the starter relay. So, if the nut on that post is loose, or there is corrosion on those wire terminals, battery power cannot get to the glow plugs, starter switch, etc. That would be the first thing to check.
 
I have a 1960 B 275, starts great if the glow plug are working properly if not I plug it in for a Hour at -20F. I have a 750 cranking Amp battery with an after market master switch installed because the tractor sits lots, only started about once a month in the winter to plow snow and the battery will drain.
 
Just curious. Does your's have the inline pump or the later rotary pump? My 1960 tractor has the inline pump and my 1961 has the rotary pump.
 
I replaced the battery with the exact model from tractor supply that I have been using over the last 2 years.It has 925CCA.I never had a problem with the former battery until lately.I have purchased new battery cables and will change as weather permits.Ill be back if this is not the answer.Thanks to all who replied.glmpa
 
Thanks to all who replied.I changed the battery cables and she fired up without difficulty.Thank you again.glmpa
 
(quoted from post at 11:39:38 03/09/09) Not trying to start an argument here, but I've got several B-275 diesels, as well as B414s and a 3414. All with single batteries and all will crank fine, even when it's 0 degrees F outside. Not the greatest starting tractors, but the engines are small enough where it does not need a lot of battery power or dual batteries. Starter can draw 450 amps max. I'll add that the later B-275s with the rotary CAV injection pumps start much better then the early B-275s with the inline, air-governor CAV pumps. I have a small car battery (from a Subaru) in my late-model B-275 and it cranks and starts fine in cold weather. On my early B-275, I have a big single battery - the same as the early Dodge Cummins trucks use - and it too works fine. It needs the bigger battery since, to start that tractor, a lot of cranking needs to be done. NAPA # 7235 is more than enough. It's a 31P type battery.
Considering the age of the tractor, I don't know if it still has original wiring or not. I changed all mine. If your tractor is original, all the battery power from the battery, connects to the rest of the system via the post on the starter relay. So, if the nut on that post is loose, or there is corrosion on those wire terminals, battery power cannot get to the glow plugs, starter switch, etc. That would be the first thing to check.

This is great information. Just reviving this post to add some keywords so search can work better for the next guy. I always had trouble starting in cold with this tractor until I put the new fast heat glow plugs in. they work perfectly but draw the battery I had in it down too much (an old car battery thats too weak now) to crank fast enough.

Also started using a zerostart magnetic block heater. cranks easier after it's been on for and hour or so.

B275 cold cranking amps.
 

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