Electrical accessories. Six volt lights are easy enough, but if you want to run a radio or GPS auto-steer for your M, then you'll want 12-volt.

If it's just about starting, then I agree with Ellis. A good 6V system is just fine for starting the tractor.
 
It takes only 1/2 of the amps at 12v to do the same job (work) as the 6v operation. If your 6v tractor starter needs 100 amps to start the engine at 6v, them that same starter would only use 50amps to start the tractor at 12v. (P=IxV). If V is doubled, I (current or amperage) would be cut in half to provide the same amount of Power or work. --Lee
 
I agree with you. But some time ago I was told of Ohm's law that when voltage is doubled, the amps are doubled too. I finally gave up. 12 volts don't need the big heavy cables like a 6 does.
 
(quoted from post at 18:11:07 11/18/14) I agree with you. But some time ago I was told of Ohm's law that when voltage is doubled, the amps are doubled too. I finally gave up. 12 volts don't need the big heavy cables like a 6 does.

That is true as long as the resistance stays the same. The resistance in a starter changes with the cranking load.
 
In my personal opinion, I think you see less ailments with a 12V system than you do with a 6V system. You will also have brighter lights, better starting ease, and so on with a 12 volt system. Even with that said, for what its worth, I will not do a 12V conversion to a tractor that I am trying to keep original. For me I guess it is just about keeping them like they came from the factory. Probly the biggest thing I hate to see on tractors I come across is added in-line fuel filters, and second thing is 12 volt conversions. If your going to start doing that crap, you might as well customize the whole dang tractor if you ask me. Might as well go ahead and take the seat off and add a recliner.
 
I think everything depends on application and use. My friends
8N ford starts on the coldest day on six volt. My MM U didnt
start worth a crap when it was below 80 degrees on six volt. The
tractor was in good repair just to much engine for six volt. Same
with my wd with tbe flat top pistons and combine engine in it.
You could pull or jump start either one and they took right off. I
respect and understand why people dont like taking off
generators for show units but if you use it a lot an alt works
much better.
 
The resistance changes at 6v too. Depends on air temp, engine wear, oil viscosity, etc. Starting with a 12v battery gives you so much more potential. My farm store sells group 1 6v batteries (wimpy) and the long thin 6v batteries that are used in tandem on the later diesels. The group 1 batteries are generally low amp batteries and offer short warranties. I was tired of getting new 6v batteries every 2-3 years when a 12v group 26 battery is cheaper to buy, rated double in cca and will last 5 years under average use. If somebody today designed a totally new Farmall M-type tractor with a low compression 4cyl gas engine you can bet it wouldn't feature a 6v starting, charging and lighting system.
 
(quoted from post at 23:38:14 11/18/14) In my personal opinion, I think you see less ailments with a 12V system than you do with a 6V system. You will also have brighter lights, better starting ease, and so on with a 12 volt system. Even with that said, for what its worth, I will not do a 12V conversion to a tractor that I am trying to keep original. For me I guess it is just about keeping them like they came from the factory. Probly the biggest thing I hate to see on tractors I come across is added in-line fuel filters, and second thing is [b:58a70ad1f1][i:58a70ad1f1]12 volt conversions. If your going to start doing that crap, you might as well customize the whole dang tractor if you ask me. Might as well go ahead and take the seat off and add a recliner.[/i:58a70ad1f1][/b:58a70ad1f1]

Funny you should mention that. My W9 has been converted to 12 volts, has live hydraulics with 66 series couplers and a bucket seat from a 67 Camero. :lol:
 
Electricity is a big mystery to me, but on my "H" I used to get the starter to lock up whenit hit the flywheel, every so often. It'd just go "Clunk!" and lock up. Had to remove it and re-install it.
Switched to 12V, 12V battery, Delco alternator, same starter, probably same cables for all I remember, and it just WHAM! sttarts immediately, has never locked up. I'm wondering if I'm doing damage, WHAM-ing it like that, but so far the past 25 years, no problem.
 
Main advantage is convenience:

Easier starting
Alternators produce more amps at low RPMS than generators
Smaller conductors needed
Compatible with modern accessories.
 
Six Volt systems need good heavy cables. Not
those 4 gauge Walmart cables that most people
want to use. Six volts also needs all the
ground connection to be clean ans free of rust.

I mean all ground connections. Not just the
connection on top of the battery.Where the
ground connects to the frame needs to be clean.
id the ground is on the battery box then the
connection between the box and the frame needs
to be clean.
The starter mounts to the engine need to be
clean and the back edges of the starter where
the backing back attaches needs to be clean.
Use star washers on all connections.
Use a good starter button. The contacts
inside the buttons tend to burn and not make
good contact after 40 years of use.
 
In 1940, your car was probably 6V, your tractor was 6V, and there was no such thing as a vehicle alternator. Six volt bulbs were available everywhere bulbs were sold.

Seventy years later, no manufacturer in their right mind would build a tractor to run with a 6v system powered by a generator, even though I'm told you can now get a 6v alternator. But why?

If you are working on a restoration piece, there is no question but to keep it 6v with the Delco generator. If the 6v system still works well for you, no need to change. If it stops working altogether it can get costly to keep it going. If it doesn't work well for the way you use your tractor, e.g.: you need more juice than the generator can keep up with except at full rpm, you may want to change. If you want a far more reliable system that keeps up with basic lights and ignition even at an idle, that 'fits' with practically everything else that starts with a key, go to 12v and an alternator. In 2014 (and beyond) it's only common sense.
 
The Delco 10SI alternator is very versatile in that it only takes a different regulator to change it to 6, 12, or 24 volt. If you have a one wire regulator it only takes a different rectifier bridge, an extra insulator, and a piece of wire to change any of them to positive ground.
 
MY H and C start easy on 12 volts. The alternator charges quick. If I were trying to keep an original look, I would take a generator to the shop and have it re-wired up for 12 volts.
 

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