42 H with gravity trip bucket Stanhoist loader

carpenter

Member
I use this for clearing snow at a cabin in Wisconsin. The loader and tractor are working fine. The loader twists very easily and quite a bit when lifting an unbalanced load or even setting down to latch bucket. It does however follow the uneven ground well like this.

Should I use it like this?
Will it cause metal fatigue?
Should a add bracing to loader?
Should I add a hydraulic valve fitting thing to lines to equalize oil volume?

carpenter
 
I would be looking at loader and seeing where to put bracing that would do the most good. If you twist it enough times something will crack or break.
 
There are no simple hydraulic solutions because the H pump, or any single pump, will displace fluid into the easiest to move cylinder first. A complex hydraulic solution is 2 accessory pumps one for each cylinder. Or a single cylinder pushing two slave cylinders each hooked to one of the lift cylinders. Complex.
A common way to stiffen the loader is to put a tube of fair size 6 inches dia and 3/8 wall thickness) at the pivot point on the frame (if possible), or just behind the bucket. It must be welded to the rails so the rails are forced to act as one. Show us a picture. Jim
 
Looking at the design of the stanhoist loader, I can easily see why it twists. There isn't much to it, just a couple of pipes.

There's a reason nobody builds "pipe loaders" anymore, and you're experiencing it firsthand. They're meant for gentle use on level ground.

Nothing hydraulic will fix the problem, and it's going to take a LOT of bracing to stiffen the loader up. Left as is, it's going to fatigue and break sooner or later.

Frankly you'd be better off using it as-is for as long as you can, and looking for a better loader in the meantime.
 
Dad bought a Stan-Hoist loader to put on the M in about 1960. Put M&W live hyd. on it shortly after. The live hyd and extra weight and power of an M was NOT kind to the loader.

I assume you have the 42 inch manure bucket, not the 80 inch wide snow bucket. The loader frame does flex a lot with the wide bucket. But I would look over your loader closely for cracks since it's flexing with the narrow bucket and when empty.

Look around the bucket latch on the pipe right behind the bucket, top & bottom each side of the latch and also on the outer ends around where the gussets get welded on. Also look at the top pipes on the lift arms, both sides, on the tops right ahead of the plates the lift cylinders pin into. Also check the tops of the mounting brackets where the loader pivots, those "U" shaped brackets can crack as well as the welds holding them to the pipe mounting frame.

Make sure all the mounting bolts are tight, and that you have the short braces that go from the mounting frames to the clutch housing.

Dad did a BUNCH of bracing to his loader, and weld repairing. The list of things to inspect is where he patched his loader in the order of how many patches were made. In the case of the front pipe by the bucket latch, THREE patches on top of each other.

The loader may be old and patched, but a couple years ago I lifted a 1500# slab of concrete with it.
 
Those loaders were pretty much like a noodle when they were new. I second the advice to just use it until you can find a better loader. We had a homemade loader on a John Deere B and then on a Farmall M. Dad bought the ill-fated Stanhoist pipe loader to put on an Oliver 88. Stanhoist should have stuck to making wagon hoists.
 
I have a very worn Stanhoist loader on my JD A. It twists just as you describe under an uneven load. Considering what I paid for it, and how worn the bushings and pins are, it is still one of the most valuable tools I have. It is way better than any shovel or fork ever made.
 
Thanks all.

On closer inspection I found some cracks on the bottom side where the bucket latch cross member attaches to the right and left tube arms.

Will look for a flow divider that's work to provide equal volume of oil on power up but flows back to tractor on gravity down however. Got to be cheap and simple though.
 
I do not think a flow divider will work. Yhe issue is not pressure it is equal volume in each cylinder, forcing equal lift distance. The H has no provision for measuring the volume sent to each, and the divider only controls pressure. which could be kept equal but way not level. Mechanical restraint is really the only way. Jim
 
Jim: don't they make a valve that forces equal volume?

Really wish I new more about hydraulics. Pretty useful field.

On a side note. Do the cutout regulators sold work fine on my 6 volt system for this tractor?

Thanks, carpenter
 
No to the first question. A complex pump with two separate pumps with each connected to one of the lift cylinders. No valve I know of.
A cutout is a simple one relay device with no regulation.
A regulator for a later tractor can work, and regulate voltage. See the archives for details. Jim
 

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