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C still loses power

P

PretendFarmer

Well-known Member
My wife's 1948 C is still losing power in stock tractor pulls while all other C tractors are not. With 135 psi on all four this shouldn't be happening.
I'd appreciate options. Could the spark advance not be working? Governor issues?
 
Are you using the stock mag or has it been changed to a dist. Replace the gov spring with one for a 240 and make sure the gov housing input shaft doesent have slop and then set the carb linkage correct. What size tores are you using they could be way too much oversized. Hard to tell what others are using as the term "stock" is widely abused too many internal things can be changed in that engine.
 
The mag was switched to the dist from my 140. I'll have to change out that spring. Do you know where I can get one and how it goes in?
The governor does seem a bit sloppy.
 

You don't know what you are up against. A Farmall C will get trounced by one that has a SC engine in it, that has been fined tuned. There are guys out there whose only reason for living is pulling. They eat, sleep and dream about 1st place and that $50 prize money. Spending several thousand on an engine is not a problem for a lot of people.
 
You get the spring from I-H it will give you more RPMs what size are your tires. Is the dist up to snuff advance working good. The mag gives 32 advance when engine runs.
 
(quoted from post at 15:03:29 09/23/14) You get the spring from I-H it will give you more RPMs what size are your tires. Is the dist up to snuff advance working good. The mag gives 32 advance when engine runs.
Click to expand...



It's running 11.2-36 tires. How can I verify the dist is up to snuff?
 
I just got the stiffer governor spring a few weeks
ago for mine. I think it was about $9, had it in
stock at the dealer.
 
Don't know what's the best timing for your engine set up. But they used two different distributors on a 140. One give 30 degrees total at the crank and the other 22. One advances faster at lower speeds than the other. Can't remember for sure but think the one with the less total advanced faster at lower RPM.
Hard to compare your tractor to the others without knowing what they have done.
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:02 09/23/14) Don't know what's the best timing for your engine set up. But they used two different distributors on a 140. One give 30 degrees total at the crank and the other 22. One advances faster at lower speeds than the other. Can't remember for sure but think the one with the less total advanced faster at lower RPM.
Hard to compare your tractor to the others without knowing what they have done.
Click to expand...

My 140 is a 1961. Does that help ID the dist? If it only advances 22 degrees I might be better off with the mag.
 
What horsepower is you C making now? If you can check it on a dynamometer you might find it is just fine for a stock tractor. Once you know where you are at you can decide what changes you want to make.

Tractor pulling has been compared to stock car racing: "a cheating contest".
 
Should be a 22 distributor in a 61. For pulling find the combination that works best for your engine. No set in stone timing numbers work the best for different tractors when going for the most power.
 
Really simple to check the advance. First thing is to look inside the distributor. Take the breaker plate out so you can see the marking on the shaft. It will say 40L or 30L or some other one of several different advances. Then you know what you are dealing with. Static time the engine to top dead center, mark the front pulley or flywheel off in degrees. Hook up a timing light and see if it is near top dead center at low idle & gradually increases the advance up to the total that is marked on the shaft when you reach rated rpm's. It should have a 30 degree advance but a 40 will work as is probably what is in it but you never know. If you do not have the correct total advance you never will achieve maximum horse power. Also, if it does not retard as the engine slows down you will not have good lugging power. If you had it on a dyno you could change the timing as it is pulling and set for max power, then note that timing and select the correct advance distributor shaft for your purpose.
 
Ok so turns out the rod from the carb to governor lever was too short. So I made a new one and I'm trying to get things adjusted now.
 

The caseih dealer said there is two springs. Can anyone give me more direction or a part number of the spring I should get?
 
there are two springs in your gov.the skinny spring is your bumper spring,its the spring on the very bottom of your gov.but that's not your problem.if your gov races up and down on a load you may want to check that one.the spring your looking for is the 240 gov spring.the main larger spring,but I don't have that part number.
 

Thanks Tim. I might as well replace both. The bottom spring adjustment is good but the springs are cheap enough. Thanks.
 
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