460 utility cold blooded?

Hi I have a IH 460 utility gas and it's been very hard to start when it's cold at all, so I have to use starting fluid. I figured it was just worn out, but then a neighbour just got one just like it and his wouldn’t start today when it was just 50 and windy. Is this common among them? Is there a common problem that causes it? Thanks
Eric
 
I've owned my 2424 for over 25 years and its always been cold-blooded. Need to run it with the choke half out for the first 5 minutes or so when plowing snow. Its not much better in the summer. Had to rebuild the carb last year and that seemed to make no difference.

Long ago the old farmer I worked for had a 460 utility, gas - it was his new big tractor. As I remember, that always was cold blooded too.

Tim
 
How are you using the choke? Look & see if it closes all the way. If it runs & pulls OK when it is warmed up, it should start with the proper use of a working choke.
 
These engines are pretty much the same ones used in the '50-'68 International trucks, give or take. Those old trucks were cold-natured. Pappy always said that when the weather started getting cooler, it took some choke...and when it was downright cold, you had to pull the choke knob back in the seat with ya.

Now, if it seems like the engine is slow to warm up after you get it running, check the flapper and bimetallic spring on the exhaust manifold. That's what's commonly called a "heat riser" in automotive usage, and when it's working right, the engines tend to warm up fairly quickly.

If you're used to a world of fuel injection or carbs with automatic chokes...well, welcome to 1930's carburetor technology. Once you understand what you've got, they're easy to figure out. But it AIN'T a "set-it-and-forget-it" thing like a modern vehicle.
 
If you're using starting fluid, either you're not using the choke or something is definitely wrong.

Yes, the 6-cylinder engines are cold blooded, but not THAT cold blooded. You'll need to fiddle with the choke for the first 5-10 minutes until they start to get warmed up, but spray should not be necessary.

These aren't fuel-injected, which throws a lot of people who didn't grow up on a farm operating these machines for a loop. You need to learn to use the choke and develop a feel for what your particular tractor "wants" as each tractor is a little different.

Top tip: Don't let the clutch out without one hand on the choke knob after you first start it.

If choke doesn't help, start with a compression test.
 
you need a complete tune up , including carb job and valve adjustment and adjusted to factory spec's. mine started with 1 turn of the engine with choke pulled right out once this was done. it was very easy starting tractor. but just had to keep some choke on in cooler weather till it warmed up.
who know's, maybe your choke is not closing all the way?
also you need the heat riser valve working, but it has nothing to do with starting.
 
Choke isn't closing all the way, OR, the spring loaded relief valve in choke butterfly is missing. They will start very easy, anytime, it is just after you them running that the spitting and sputtering is a problem.
 
I am used to old tractors, actually this is by far my newest one, but the only one that wont start even with the choke pulled in the seat with me, my neighbours does the same thing. As soon as they do start you can push the choke off and go to work no prob, just wont even try on full choke once the temp dips... Thanks I guess I'll check the chokes and see if there's a problem
 
Do you still have the resistor bypass wire hooked up and is in working? From the factory those tractors had a wire that came off the starter solenoid that hooked to the Pos (+) terminal of the coil allowing full battery power to reach the distributor points for starting. Once the engine was running power flowed from the ignition switch to the resistor (beside the coil) to the distributor, allowing about 7 volts to reach the points for normal running. I have seen tractor where the coil and resistor were replaced with a 12 volt coil, and then the extra voltage for starting is not there. Charlie U
 
How fresh is the gasoline? Summer blended fuel that has aged in the tank will have evaporated off some of the more volatile parts of the fuel making what is left harder to vaporize. Try adding a couple gallons of fresh gasoline to see if that helps.

I have not added any gasoline to my 2444 since June. I expect that as the temperature drops I will be having problems getting it started with a cold engine. I happens almost every fall. Adding a couple of gallons of fresh gasoline always makes the problem go away.
 

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