always heard term ...yeh you just drill it out an cut new threads....never ever seen me or anyone else successfully do it..... bits always break..where do you buy good bits at..thebolt that broke is the top side grill bolt that srews into radiator braket on a sc...and bottom bolt also.. what is the trick for removing broken bolts......thanks for input ..dewy
- Thread starter dewy
- Start date
gtractorfan
Well-known Member
It helps to have a left handed drill bit, it will tend to unscrew the bolt.
Lpakiz Larry
Member
I have found that the spiral-tapered easy-outs do not work very well. They tend to spread the bolt out and jam it tight against whatever the bolt is screwed into. Square easy-outs don't so that.
Actually, the very best easy-out I have ever used is a 6 point "torx" bit. Drill the hole the same size, or slightly smaller, than the "minor" diameter of the torx bit, then drive it in.
Actually, the very best easy-out I have ever used is a 6 point "torx" bit. Drill the hole the same size, or slightly smaller, than the "minor" diameter of the torx bit, then drive it in.
Lpakiz Larry
Member
Torx bits are tools, so you can get them at NAPA, Sears, Snap-on (the best), Matco, etc.
No, the square easy outs just snap off in the bolt, leaving you with useless scrap metal.
Google is your friend for left handed drill bits. Just go there and type in "left handed drill bits."
If you're breaking off regular drill bits, left handed drill bits won't make any difference. You need SHARP drill bits, and you can't be reefing on the drill to force them to cut.
You need a good center punch mark to start with. Go slow and start with a small bit, work your way up size by size. It helps to have a good "calibrated eyeball" to tell if you're drilling straight. By going through every size of drill bit, you can also make corrections to the angle and direction of the hole as you go.
I had a manifold bolt snap off on my 240 back in the spring. Had the head all clamped down in the drill press and squared up and perfect center punch mark on the broken stud. Drilled a small hole with the drill press and it wandered, BAD. Fortunately by going with each size bit all the way up through I eventually managed to get the hole centered and straight again by the time I got to the threads.
Google is your friend for left handed drill bits. Just go there and type in "left handed drill bits."
If you're breaking off regular drill bits, left handed drill bits won't make any difference. You need SHARP drill bits, and you can't be reefing on the drill to force them to cut.
You need a good center punch mark to start with. Go slow and start with a small bit, work your way up size by size. It helps to have a good "calibrated eyeball" to tell if you're drilling straight. By going through every size of drill bit, you can also make corrections to the angle and direction of the hole as you go.
I had a manifold bolt snap off on my 240 back in the spring. Had the head all clamped down in the drill press and squared up and perfect center punch mark on the broken stud. Drilled a small hole with the drill press and it wandered, BAD. Fortunately by going with each size bit all the way up through I eventually managed to get the hole centered and straight again by the time I got to the threads.
CenTex Farmall
Well-known Member
I have best luck doing what Mr. Kircsh does, drill the hole in several stages. If I have a 3/8 bolt that's broken, I would start with a 1/16 or 1/8 bit then go to 1/4 then go to 5/16 etc. For the final drill you want to be just under the minor diameter of the bolt. Hopefully, then you are left with just the bolt threads in the hole and you can remove them with a sharp pick.
For centering, a punch if it's something heavy or if not, such as your present case, I would use a ball end carbide burr in a die grinder and make a dimple as close to center as I can.
You can find good drill bits at an industrial supplier such as Enco. Hardware store bits can be as good but it depends on what the local store has in stock and you have to buy the better ones.
For centering, a punch if it's something heavy or if not, such as your present case, I would use a ball end carbide burr in a die grinder and make a dimple as close to center as I can.
You can find good drill bits at an industrial supplier such as Enco. Hardware store bits can be as good but it depends on what the local store has in stock and you have to buy the better ones.
tractorguy2
Well-known Member
good drill bits, a good bit sharpener, and stright flute bolt extractors.
You need to drill a small hole first and work our way up using a slightly larger bit.
Sometimes heat will help if it's in an area where you can heat the area around the bolt.
You need to drill a small hole first and work our way up using a slightly larger bit.
Sometimes heat will help if it's in an area where you can heat the area around the bolt.
I agree with everything here. but I would like to add when drilling, be sure to go all the way through the bolt. I have found this seems to take some pressure off the sides of the bolt. Left hand drill bits are fine if the bolt is not rusted in badly, then they are no better than a regular drill bit. Mac Tools have drill bit sets that are life time warranty no matter if you break it or what. An excellent investment.
Tom Dowling
Member
use cutting oil and drill slow speed
all good advice.
If you are breaking bits, you are
going too fast
pushing too hard
hand isn't rock steady
letting your concentration wander (even for a second)
small hole first
lots of oil
slooow drill speed
(watch a machinist drill press in operation)
and lots and lots of patience. If the bit is exiting chips, it's cutting. pushing harder won't hurry it up, it'll just break.
I wish they made a cheap hand drill that had max torque
at one speed....super slow.
Variable speed trigger...bah..if I wanted fast, I'd use a die-grinder.
I never use any style easy-outs on a tightly rusted broken fastener.
Never made much sense to me. If that good quality bolt just failed, a smaller! diameter whatever driven in will work? not likely
If you are breaking bits, you are
going too fast
pushing too hard
hand isn't rock steady
letting your concentration wander (even for a second)
small hole first
lots of oil
slooow drill speed
(watch a machinist drill press in operation)
and lots and lots of patience. If the bit is exiting chips, it's cutting. pushing harder won't hurry it up, it'll just break.
I wish they made a cheap hand drill that had max torque
at one speed....super slow.
Variable speed trigger...bah..if I wanted fast, I'd use a die-grinder.
I never use any style easy-outs on a tightly rusted broken fastener.
Never made much sense to me. If that good quality bolt just failed, a smaller! diameter whatever driven in will work? not likely
Red Mercury
Member
I couldn't agree more--especially with your comments about easy-outs. Usually the broken fastener is rusted/seized and that is why it broke off in the first place. An easy-out will never budge it. Break an easy-out off in the hole and then the problem just became a whole lot worse. My easy-outs went to the scrap iron pile 20 years ago. I go straight to drilling and re-tapping now. With some patience and practice it isn't too difficult to end up with the original threads.
Very good advice listed. DRILL SLOW!!!! Small does not mean 3000 rpms. It means like 3 rpms. Also I have found that I do NOT tighten the drill bit in the chuck. I tighten it with my hand only. So when the bit starts cutting through the end of the bolt, it doesn't catch and break off. It slips in the chuck and I can reverse the drill and get the bit unstuck.
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