Farmall h hydraulic pump removal

DanH

Member
What is the best way to remove the hydraulic pump.Can anybody share how or what they made or used to remove it safely . Have to replace some seals and clean up all of the oil mess inside . Also is there any tips on how to replace any of the seals and if there is something I should do while I have it out. Thanks dan
 
There is only one seal and one gasket on the pump. There are a couple of transmission seals you can change while the pump is out. Pretty much anyway you do it you should have 2 people to remove the pump as it is quite heavy. Remove all pipe outlets and the handle to activate it. On an H there is a plate to remove and you can get to the drive shaft for the pump. If I remember there is a coller on each end a cotter pin. The ends are like a mortise and cut through tenon so it can only slide off one way. After that its just a matter of removing the bolts that hold the pump and drop it down. That is where you need the help. There were handles made just for the job. I have used a floor jack and had someone steady the unit as it goes up and down. Probably other ways to do it.Once out just unbolt the plate on the pump and the gasket is on that. To removed the seal the book says use a brass rod and stick inside the pump to jam the gears. The coupling unscrews opposite a normal threaded bolt. It won't come off easy.
 
I made 2 rods with a square key welded on to match the hole across the bottom of the pump. Then weld about a foot of bar stock (I used 1/4 x1 flat)on end of each rod so it is in a vertical position and weld or bolt a chain link or an eye of any kind on the top end of bar stock. Use an engine hoist or any other lifting tool with a long strap to hook on the ends of the bar stock. Put some lift tension on it and remove bolts and coupler and pipes and lever -then lower to floor. You need straps long enough to clear steering shaft when lowered. This makes it a safe 1 man job.
 
I have used a car transmission jack with some welded blocks bolted onto the jack to hold it steady when I lower it down.
 

4 pieces of threaded rod, and 4 nuts will let you lower that pump right to the ground. Just remove one mounting bolt at a time and replace it with threaded rod and a nut.
 
For stabilities sake, remove the top fill cap befroe you start any of this, and install a slightly longer pipe nipple and a merchant pipe coupling. [Think it"s 3/4-inch pipe.] As you lower the pump slowly to the ground, install longer and longer nipples and couplings. Keep threading them in, so the pump is always held stable by 3/4" pipe. Works great, pump won"t tilt or pivot, and just reverse the process to re-install.
 

i have two 'm's and the way i dropped them was with two 16 inch pieces of all thred i removed the front bolt on one side and the back one one the other side and put in the all thred with nuts one bothe of them then snugged up the nuts and removed the last two bolts there is a drive color that can be interesting at best but to drop the pump turn the motor by hand till the slot is strate up and down then let the nuts loos with a set of open ended ratchet wrenches then when you go to put it back in bring the pump up so the slot in the pump drive is horozontal then slap some thick greas on it so the coupler kind of sticks to it then rais it up and have a frind turn the motor so the slots line up and slip it in. i will know what to do when you see it
 
That's a great idea! I've always used a floor jack to lower and raise the pump, and the problem is always that it wants to tip over when it clears the casting. The pipe extension would prevent that.
 

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