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Succesful Farmall M 12 volt conversion (lots of pics)

R

rankrank1

Well-known Member
I actually thought this would be easier than the Farmall h was, but I decided to mod the support bracket for a little extra pulley clearance (a little hack welding was used).

Again thanks to Bob M and Gerry Powell whose wiring diagrams I used for this conversion from this site.

Alternator is a Hitachi 14231. Original generator bracket was used, but simply turned upside down. I drilled new holes inboard of the orginal holes roughly 3/8" from edge of existing hole to closest edge of new hole. I used a diode instead of a idiot light and incorporated a ballast resistor for the coil.













 
I'll echo what Jim N says - well done! I especially like how you mounted the coil ballast resistor - I may copy that myself.

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Tip: Consider removing the several nuts you have on the threaded rod between the front of the generator mounting bracket and the front alternator pivot ear. Replace them with a steel tube spacer cut to the proper length and slipped over the threaded rod. Then clamp the spacer tight with a nut on the fan side of the alternator ear.

Reason: The relatively slender threaded rod cantilevered off the front of the bracket is subject to fatigue from bending load/vibration. Given time it will cause the threaded rod to break near the front bracket. (It's happened on mine a couple times.)

Replacing those nuts with a spacer eliminates the cantilever bending load on the threaded rod and thus the risk of it snapping off.
 
Feel free to copy the ballast resistor mounting location. I copied it myself - see my farmall h conversion thread for more details.
 
I considered cutting pipe/tubing spacers (and I may yet). The nuts provide adjustability if I need to tweek my belt alignment. Everything is double nutted at every location which leaves very little all thread exposed on the cantilvered end. Suprisingly the double nuts help with the strength factor since so little all thread is exposed on the cantilevered end. It is very solid. Additionally this is true 8mm all thread instead of 5/16" size. The 8mm is a whisker bigger and the threads are finer so the threads are not cut as deep which makes the 8mm all thread slightly stronger than traditional 5/16" all thread.
 
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