Two questions - Farmall H

bassmasta76 · Aug 30, 2014

Good morning everyone,

I've got a few questions:

The first should be rather simple.. I want to remove the exhaust manifold from my H to clean and paint it. Do I absolutely have to replace the gasket or can I reuse it? If I have to buy a new one, I guess it's not the end of the world... just more money I dont really want to spend....

The second question is regarding the Governor. I've noticed oil leaking onto the Engine support block right below the governor. I'm not sure if the gasket that mates the Governor to the front crankcase cover is leaking or perhaps something else.

I'd like to remove the governor to replace the gaskets and check it out and give it a good cleaning, but I've been reading online and there seems to be much conflicting information about whether or not it needs to be timed. The service manual doesn't say anything about timing (at least that I've read), just that it can be removed and how to do that. I'm interested in the expert's opinions on this. I really dont want to screw it up...

thanks in advance!

--b

DeltaRed · Aug 30, 2014

Painting the exaust manifold is a waste of
time.First time you start it will burn the paint
off.However,since the intake/exaust manifolds are
'married',go ahead.Yoy should replace the gasket
while it is apart.Governor doesnot need to be timed.
only make sure the tang/slot between carb and
governor is lined up.

rustyfarmall · Aug 30, 2014

(quoted from post at 09:04:26 08/30/14) Good morning everyone,

I've got a few questions:

The first should be rather simple.. I want to remove the exhaust manifold from my H to clean and paint it. Do I absolutely have to replace the gasket or can I reuse it? If I have to buy a new one, I guess it's not the end of the world... just more money I dont really want to spend....

The second question is regarding the Governor. I've noticed oil leaking onto the Engine support block right below the governor. I'm not sure if the gasket that mates the Governor to the front crankcase cover is leaking or perhaps something else.

I'd like to remove the governor to replace the gaskets and check it out and give it a good cleaning, but I've been reading online and there seems to be much conflicting information about whether or not it needs to be timed. The service manual doesn't say anything about timing (at least that I've read), just that it can be removed and how to do that. I'm interested in the expert's opinions on this. I really dont want to screw it up...

thanks in advance!

--b

It is very unlikely the manifold will come off WITHOUT destroying the gasket, so yes, you will need to replace the gasket.

I also agree with the other answer. Any paint you use will just burn off within a few minutes of start-up. The exception would be black barbecue paint. It MIGHT last a few hours instead of minutes.

David G · Aug 30, 2014

I paint the manifolds with JD muffler paint, holds up real well.

tractorguy2 · Aug 30, 2014

If I remember corrctly,I think the governor has one
bolt that is inside the timing cover?

bassmasta76 · Aug 30, 2014

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate the info.

Glad to hear that I can remove the Governor without having to worry about timing. I think some of the other models in the letter series you may need to worry about timing? Of course, I've read this online and take that with a grain of salt. Regardless, it doesnt matter here.

As for the manifold, I will just get a new gasket. Regarding the coating of the manifold, I've had quite a bit of luck in the past with Eastwood products on car exhaust manifolds. Their coatings are designed for high temp applications... I'd post a link but am not sure if it will get pulled or not... just search for Eastwood Exhaust coatings... they support up to 1200-1300F and bake on as the part gets hot.

thanks!

--b

Bob in wc Ia. · Aug 30, 2014

I believe your oil leak is coming from a worn seal on the backside of the governer. This is on the speed control shaft. You will need to remove the lever with the high and low speed adjustment bolts. The spring is attached to this lever also. Then remove the woodruff key and you should be able to pull the shaft out. The seal is 1 inch o.d. and 12 inch i.d.. If the shaft is worn too much, a new seal, by itself won"t help much. I have rebuilt some of these by building up w/bronze and reshaping with a file. Also have fitted a 5/8 x 1 inch bronze bushing and bored to 5/8 inch, and use a 5/8 i.d.x1 inch seal. hope this helps. Bob

Bob in wc Ia. · Aug 30, 2014

Oops, forgot to put a slash between the 1 and 2.
The i.d. of the speed control shaft is 1/2 inch ,
not as posted in 1st reply. Bob

bassmasta76 · Aug 30, 2014

Bob,

Thanks for the advice. I pulled the governor off and while I've not dug into it too much yet, believe you are probably correct. The gasket between the governor housing and the crankcase cover seemed to be largely non-existent (felt perhaps? it is a pain to scrape off). Anyway, I didnt see any obvious leak or anything from that area, so it probably is the worn seal.

thanks!

--b

DeltaRed · Aug 30, 2014

that bolt is BEHIND the governor,between the engine and governor.

GordoSD · Aug 31, 2014

You are correct on the Eastwood products. Here is their "Cast Blast" on an H manifold. And it has remained like that. I use a 40 grit flap wheel in 4 inch angle grinder to "polish" the manifold. Final sand with 100 grit.

GordoSD · Aug 31, 2014

Here's one of my manifolds prior to paint. I also plane the face.15 to 20 thousanths

rustyfarmall · Aug 31, 2014

Gordo, what will that manifold look like after the tractor has pulled a 2-14s plow for a couple of hours?

bassmasta76 · Sep 1, 2014

(reply to post at 16:07:33 08/30/14)
I believe your oil leak is coming from a worn seal on the backside of the governer.

I posted a follow-up that the shaft is pretty worn. Still trying to figure out exactly how I want to fix it, but my question now is how do I remove the seal at the back? Do I need to try and save it or do the replacement seals have the whole assembly?

The rear part of the governor case where the shaft rests is also pretty worn... but I think I can work out some sort of fix for that.

Pictures of the worn shaft and the seal...

thanks in advance for the advice!!

--b

Bob in wc Ia. · Sep 1, 2014

bsasmasta
Looks like your definitely going to have to repair
or replace that shaft. I would put a sleeve on the
shaft on side towards the engine that measures
5/8".Then bore your housing to 5/8. May have to do
a little light honing to get a nice fit. the seal
can be carefully pried out. Make sure to get all
of the old shell out. Then replace with a new 5/8"
x 1" seal. On the other end of the shaft , you
could build up as I mentioned yesterday. If I can
be of any more help just ask, or call me .phone:
712 792 3065. Bob

bassmasta76 · Sep 9, 2014

Hi all,

In follow-up, I was able to get the seal out (more or less in one piece). I've thought about the wear on the shaft and on the bosses in the governor body. They arent worn too badly that I think if I just replace the shaft itself and the seal, it'll be ok.

The question I've got now is can I order a new speed change lever/shaft and seal? Would IH be the best route on this or somewhere else?

My plans for the tractor do not involve hard labor (maybe a little work on occasion)... I think after nearly 70 years it could use a good rest

.

thanks,

--b

bassmasta76 · Sep 9, 2014

So I decided to call an IH dealer for pricing.... wow. Both the throttle shaft and seal are available from CNH..... the shaft is $179 and the seal is $11.50. I think I'll try and figure something else out on the shaft... wowza.

--b

WellWorn · Sep 14, 2014

(quoted from post at 17:39:51 09/09/14) So I decided to call an IH dealer for pricing.... wow. Both the throttle shaft and seal are available from CNH..... the shaft is $179 and the seal is $11.50. I think I'll try and figure something else out on the shaft... wowza.

--b

, my SA gov shaft looked about like that. I got the replacement needle bearing set (behind the seal) from CNH, the seal from a motor shop (~$5), and had a local machine shop make a replacement shaft - your's looks about the same as mine. IIRC, custom made shaft cost me $30.

bassmasta76 · Sep 14, 2014

WellWorn,

Thanks for the advice! I got a quote from a local machine shop... they wanted $160 to make the replacement shaft.. crazy! My dad is a former machinist and for those kind of prices, he suggested just having someone with good MIG welding skills fill in the worn area and then file it down so that it would fit. The rear boss is worn as well, but not bad enough where I think it wont hurt to leave it as-is.

I'm still trying to figure out exactly what I want to do...

Anybody out there have a shaft that isn't in bad shape that you would sell? Just curious.

thanks again,

--b

Two questions - Farmall H

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