Is the rear hydraulic block under the seat functional? I mean is it more than just a junction? I have read that some owners have bypassed it and everything still seems to work. Anyone here tried that? Mine is badly deteriorated and I am thinking about just getting longer hoses to connect the rear hydraulic lift piston to the auxilliary valve. Ok plan?
- Thread starter agauthier
- Start date
gene bender
Well-known Member
It has a retarder thingy so the hitch dont drop fast under load
Brian Schmidt
Member
The block is a double acting check valve. This prevents the hitch from drifting down with a load on it. The hydraulic valve naturally leaks a bit and will drift without this valve. It will work ok if you don't need to carry a load a long time or hold it at a constant height. The other option is to purchase a generic valve at a hydraulic supply house.
Dean Olson
Well-known Member
Yes it serves a purpose. I slows the drop of the implement so you don't damage it.
I bypassed mine and control the drop spead with the auxiliary control valve. So far I haven't damage my implements.
I bypassed mine and control the drop spead with the auxiliary control valve. So far I haven't damage my implements.
I'm not positive about this because it's been a long time, but I think it's a "pilot operated check valve", wherein you have to pressurize it "down" to open the check to return the fluid from the bottom end of the cylinder. Easy way to check that is if you have some weight on the drawbar or an implement, [u:39dac16439]with the engine not running[/u:39dac16439], operate the valve to lower the implement. If it does not lower, it's a pilot operated check valve. If it does lower slowly, it's a metering valve, but I'm thinking it will not lower. You can buy either type "aftermarket", but you may need to go to a specialty hydraulic sales place and not to a TSC or whatever farm store you have. Some FELs have these on the bucket, so the bucket will not dump accidentally... might find one of these.
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