Need help installing crank pulley

RTR

Well-known Member
Okay guys we have finally got the engine back together on the farmall super A that had the sheared cam and Gov. teeth. I wanted to double check to see how I need to put the crankshaft pulley on. We have a new front oil seal installed and the front cover and we're ready to put the pulley back on. I think I've heard where you bake it in the oven to heat it up but wanted to doublecheck the specifics. What about driving it on once it's heated up do I still have to drive it down pretty hard erect quickly?

Thank you guys for any help you can provide as we are getting ready to put it on this morning before it gets too hot. One step closer to getting it running again
 
I have a bracket assy and use a hy jack to press them on as some go on easier than others. Same thing on removing use a plate behind the pulley and three jaw puller. Is the area where the seal rides clean and no grouve cause if it is worn where the seal rides it will leak.Mite need a speedy sleeve to get a good surface in that area.
 
(quoted from post at 20:32:58 08/23/14) I have a bracket assy and use a hy jack to press them on as some go on easier than others. Same thing on removing use a plate behind the pulley and three jaw puller. Is the area where the seal rides clean and no grouve cause if it is worn where the seal rides it will leak.Mite need a speedy sleeve to get a good surface in that area.

Sounds like I might not get it on today then if I need to build a bracket. Do you have pictures if yours and how it works/attaches?
 
Hi
I would say you might want to warm it to get it
to expand nice and get it to slip on. Have seen
some tight pulleys split where the key way is then
leak with a new seal.
Did a harmonic balancer front pulley on a 466 IH
motor back a month or 2. it stated pull off cold
and boil in water for not more than around an
hour, to expand it before re fitting. even warmed
for the stated time it was a pig to get on! so
would of wrecked something cold. The above reason
for heating could be an international spec for
installation of that pulley you have also. If not it would definatly make
it go easier, but thinking boiling keeps the temp
more even all round, ovens tend to cook uneven,
from the complaining in the house when one side of a
cakes black L.O.L.
Regards Robert
 
Check to see if the center of the crankshaft has threads. If so, they are 1/2". For those types, I use a 2" pipe coupling, a 4"X4" 1/4" plate with a 1/2" hole bored in the center, and a length of 1/2" all thread with a nut, to draw the pulley on.
I haven't had to use oven heat, I would be concerned about heat on the new seal. I would not drive the pulley on, I would not want to smash the thrust bearings.
 
Charlie is dead on. The crank should have a threaded hole. Set up before hand and heat the pulley up to help it go on a little easier.
 
I did my C a while back.

leave the timing cover loose so the seal can pilot on the crank snub.

but a rub of grease on the seal lip.

i also took a fingerfull of neverseize and made a thin film ont he crank snub.

bake the pulley and have your welding gloves or oven mits ready to transfer it to the crank.

On mine i had the brakes locked, and in gear, and rears chocked well with 8x8.. i had the center of the tractor well cribbed with 8x8

I used a gr8 take down bolt and had pre-chased the threads in the crank snub. I used a 3/4" air gun and impact socket. that take down bolt and a nother larger 3/4" socket as a spacer.. forget the size.. but the 1/2" bolt goes thru the 3/4" drive opening eailly. think I used 2/14. whatever works.. that and a stack of flat washers to keep the bolt head off the socket.

slap it on ( check for keyway ) and start the impact gun. the loose timing cover and gasket should pilot.. then you can take her down to where you ant the seal to ride and get the pulleys alligned.

way easier going on that coming off.
 
put it in the oven for close to an hour at 325 and she slid on perfectly. we used a brass hammer and it didn't take much. Next time we will pre-chase the threads and use a peice of all-thread since it will be "safer". Thanks for the assistance guys!!

Aside from final valve and timing adjustments, the engine starts quick and runs well.


I did notice a small drip from the bottom of the front timing cover and the 3 bottom bolts aren't tightening up. Wonder why? I had my helper put them on and supposedly tighten them down yesterday, but I noticed that all were tight but those.
 

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