IH 400 Sleave seals ?

Husker44A

Well-known Member
Ok guys I was going to order the Tisco basic inframe overhaul kit for the 400 I've been working on for a while now. Called YT because I seen that their kit has cylinder sleeve gaskets? I thought these were a "dry" cylinder ? I've helped with the rebuild of "wet" cylinders and it was a while ago and fun I thought. Anyways, its a 264 CI GAS engine complete n frame less bearings and full engine gaskets. Prices at $412. Not a bad bargain at all. I'm impressed with Tisco having good luck and read a lot about their quality parts. The guy that I talked to when I asked him about the "dry" vs "wet" sleaves he really acted like he Didnt know what I was talking about. I had to explain what they were. Anyways, its ok and got info squared away. No big deal. I just thought these engines were a dry sleave engine. If so, what the heck are the sleaves gaskets for ? Thanks.
 
There are no sleeve gaskets in that engine. The sleeves are dry with a ring at the top. they are chilled, then pushed into a warm bore. The ring fits into a cleaned groove and seals against the head gasket. Jim
 
The guy you talked to was a "phone answerer," just there to appease you people who complain about getting voicemail or an an answering machine. Likely just a regular guy with minimal mechanical knowledge trying to provide for himself and/or his family.

For what they pay for a job like that, you can't expect them to be experts on everything, or much of anything at all. Someone that knows the difference between wet and dry sleeves can be earning a whole lot more money doing something else.

But yeah, it's just a generic description. That has cost this site some sales for me. They sell from the A&I catalog, so why they don't use the A&I portal like other A&I dealers is beyond me.

It's a ton more work to set up your own custom website, input all your own descriptions, etc.. Whoever they had doing it had no clue and many of the descriptions are "almost right" at best. They clearly weren't experts on tractors.
 
Someone that knows the difference between wet and dry
sleeves can be earning a whole lot more money doing
something else.

Mk, this isn't my regular job by no means. I've got a "day job".
I'm doing this for a friend that's not so mechanicly inclined. I
was reading the description and it clearly states the kit has
cylinder sleave seals. Was confused as I knew this engine isn't
a wet sleave engine. I didn't want to order the wrong parts.
Thanks.
 
Jim, thanks for the info. That's how I thought they'd go together. I was looking at the bottoms of the engine yesterday after I pulled the pistons and noticed that the sleaves are really thin. Not worried about get the old ones out. Just pushing in the new ones. My idea is to put them in a freezer over night then hopefully I can push them in safely. What's your thought on using a hardwood block and a hammer ? Going SLOW of course !!! Should I use light grease or oil on the sides of sleaves ? I've never installed dry sleaves so this is a first for me. Thanks.
 

Before ordering, you might want to examine the top of the block. There should be a code of some sort, stamped into the block, right next to each cylinder. Hopefully, those codes are all the same. If not, you may have one or two cylinders that are a bit bigger in diameter, and will require a thicker sleeve. I believe there are other folks who have encountered the discrepancies, and had to "custom" order the sleeves. Probably doesn't happen too often, but knowing what you are getting into beforehand might save some frustration later.
 
Thanks Rusty, there are numbers stamped into the deck of
block as you described. Didnt really put much thought into
what they were for !! I will check those out today and post
back my findings. Thanks.
 
Keep in mind that you have a piston pin size change for a 400 engine when ordering. Should list a serial number break on the kits or say you need to use adapter pin bushings. That will be the engine serial number listed and not the tractor on the change.
Thinwall sleeves were not designed to be a heavy press fit in the block. Lots of them will slide in from 1/3 to 2/3 by hand when clean and lightly oiled. Then you run into some that will push all the way in by hand. Then its up to you to decide to use as is, use it with locktight sleeve sealer or other, or go with a custom sleeve or other.
 
(quoted from post at 07:43:40 08/22/14) Thanks Rusty, there are numbers stamped into the deck of
block as you described. Didnt really put much thought into
what they were for !! I will check those out today and post
back my findings. Thanks.

I don't think I have the book that explains what the various codes actually mean. Maybe someone else has that info?
 
would not recommend block and hammer extreme caution because you can crack sleave we have wraped a chain around block and used a hyd. jack and pressed them in or used dry ice in a cooler to chill them
 

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