Rear wheel with adjustment Super C

agauthier · Aug 18, 2014

I'm hoping to buy a Super C, pretty rusty. Rear wheels need to come
in tighter to the body by about two inches each to fit on my trailer.
Anyone have a good trick for freeing up the wheels on the axle
so they slide?

gene bender · Aug 18, 2014

Just make sure you have a good 6pt socket and some wd-40 you never know how long its been since they have been moved. Have a good jack to do one side at a time.

Crookedwrench · Aug 18, 2014

Depending on how you load the tractor on your trailer, you might have to move the front wheels too? Front tie rods and axle change could present more problems than the rears.

Dean Olson · Aug 18, 2014

Getting the bolts loose is potentially the hard part. Lots of penetrating oil and an impact help. Once the 4 bolts are loose jack it up, rotate the wheel till it's loose and push them in. Clean and lubricate the axle if needed so it slides easy. So far I've never had the wedge or wheel rust to the axle.

ken house · Aug 18, 2014

yes sir. loosen the bolts, lube the axle, jack up the tractor and turn the wheel to the place that the wedge is on the bottom. wheel slides better this way. rock wheel top to bottom and apply pressure to wheel. good luck

Brian Schmidt · Aug 18, 2014

Second what Gene said on the 6 point shallow well socket and WD-40. Bring a long breaker bar and a pipe. They are tighter than all get out most times.

Clean the axles with a scraper then squirt them down with the WD-40 after loosening the bolts. Place pressure with your foot on the bottom of the tire from the side and walk the tire in on the axle.

Wayne in MN · Aug 18, 2014

Lock the brakes with the axle clamp on the bottom of the axle. Loosen the bolts. Put a railroad tie or such block under the Fast-Hitch on the side you have loosened and using down pressure of the hitch the wheel will come off the ground for easy moving. Rock the wheel assembly with your foot pressing in at the bottom. Tighten the clamp bolts evenly and after lowering to the ground tighten them some more.
Who needs a jack when you have a Fast-Hitch??

agauthier · Aug 19, 2014

Thanks for the tips, guys. It's two hrs away, so I am hoping to get it in one trip. Hopefully the hydraulics are good. I think I will pack a good tall house-jack I have in case there is an issue with the fast-hitch, and as Gene suggests, one side at a time may go better than two up at once. Ok: I'm heading there this afternoon--WD 40, scraper, jack, wood-block--looks like a plan! Thanks again. --AG

LMack · Aug 19, 2014

I know others have said to use down pressure on the fast hitch and that will work but it is a little scary. I would use a bottle jack just because you will need to do fine adjustment of the axel level to make it work and you do not know how good the hydraulics are. I have done it both ways and quit doing the fast hitch back in the early 60's.

dej(Jed) · Aug 19, 2014

I have only ever had 1 tractor where the bolts broke off.
They are usually easy to free up and move in.

agauthier · Aug 19, 2014

Follow up post: Success! I used the fast hitch with a big pine round under the drawbar. Worked great, except it seems to have created a hydraulic leak--but I suspect that would have happened lifting equipment sooner or later anyway.

The bolts were definitely the hard part; once they were loose, the wheels rocked in nicely. Having a helper tap the D shaped wedge while I rocked the wheel seemed to help.

PretendFarmer · Aug 19, 2014

Don't forget to torque the hub bolts down! About 100 ft-lbs should do it. If you don't, when you work it hard it could crack one of the castings. Ask me how I know.....

Rear wheel with adjustment Super C

agauthier

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gene bender

Well-known Member

Crookedwrench

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Dean Olson

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ken house

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Brian Schmidt

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Wayne in MN

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agauthier

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LMack

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dej(Jed)

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agauthier

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PretendFarmer

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