What did I do wrong? Farmall H carb leaking fuel

Redturbo

Member
I rebuilt the carb on my Dad's Farmall H. Put some gas in the tank, opened the peck cock to the sediment bowl. Hit the starter button, have gas coming out the intake side of the carb. What did I do wrong?
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Cleanliness is very important, but also the float cannot touch the sides of the float chamber. It cannot rub or touch anything. I t is sort of delicate that way.
Here"s how I tune up my H carb;

. CARB .
Make sure the float isn’t sticking or touching the insides of the float chamber. Some previous advice was to use a Dremel tool and smooth the insides of the float chamber so the float doesn’t rub or touch. Pretty important.
Set the float so the top of it rests 1 27/32" above the flat surface of the float chamber.
Initial settings are as follows to get it started;
Main fuel adjusting screw, big screw facing down at an angle, towards the rear, at the bottom of the carb; 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. This main screw turns clock-wise for leaner mixture. [This screw adjusts fuel.]
Idle air-mixture screw, smaller screw facing forwards, on upper left-hand side of carb; 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. This idle screw turns counter-clockwise for leaner. [This screw adjusts air.]
Idle speed screw, faces outboard, at the top of the carb; set for 450 rpm, and make sure the governor correctly engages in the slot. [This screw adjusts RPM’s.]
Final settings are determined as follows;
Get the engine warmed up, and idling.
Turn OUT the idle air-mixture screw until rough running, then turn in until it idles smooth. (Mine is set at 1 turn open.)
Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. (Mine is set at 1 turn open. Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.)
Should rev up smoothly and evenly.
Too Lean = stumble, sputter, damaged melted plugs.
Correct = tan plugs.
Too Rich = back smoke, black sooty plugs.
 
You didn't say if the engine started. Common for gas to be drawn up when cranking then when the cranking stops to fall back into the carburetor throat.
 
If its running right, and not pouring out, I wouldnt
worry about that little bit, but I have to ask, why
is there oil coming out of the water jacket plate?
 

Possibly an incorrect float level, maybe even a defective float. Did you submerse the float in water, and watch for air bubbles escaping? Did you thoroughly clean the NEW needle valve and seat? If you didn't clean it, it might be sticking and not closing completely.
 
The VERY first thing I would have done when I noticed the gas drip is rap the side of the carb with my pliers. Sometimes that loosens up stuck floats, etc.
 
(quoted from post at 21:35:02 08/15/14) I would agree with John M, if it runs and does not leak then, all is fine.

X3. My 200 will do the same thing if it does not start after a few tries, especially if you use the choke.
 
An update, the engine would start but not run very well. Here is what I had done. Converted over to 12 volts, replace the battery, starter switch, had starter rebuilt, installed Hitachi alternator, replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coil, put pertronix ignition, I made up new battery cables, new ignition switch, made new wiring harness. So there was a lot things that could have been the problem with that much changed. Went over all things I had done, couldn't find anything wrong. I didn't think it was spark thou. Removed #4 wire as that's what I grabbed, hooked up to old sparked plug. Got my Dad to crank it, had spark. He said why not try the other 3. Got to #1, no spark. What? Took off the cap, there is some sort of plastic that covers up where the points are. This H has a delco distributor, the plastic cover is covered in brass filings. There is nicks in the terminals on the new cap from the rotor hitting them. Put the old cap & rotor back on, engine came to life & ran okay. Think carb needs some tuning. For the moment no more gas coming out the throat. Measured the old rotor, new rotor, about .022 longer. Have a IH truck from 1952, L-110. I uses the same rotor. It was just replaced last week. It measures the same as the old rotor. Only reason I changed them, the chrome plating was coming off the rotor. I brought most of these parts from year ago & just got around to installing them. They came from a place in MI, as this site wont ship north of the border. Thanks for the ideas.
 
Its not oil leaking from the coolant plate. Its permatex #2 that drooled out the bolt holes. The bolt is kinda rough shape, figure that would kinda help with any coolant leaks.
 
The gas has seemed to stopped coming back out the carb mouth. But the engine is only running on cylinders 3 & 4, can pulled 1 & 2 plug wires off & makes no difference. The spark plugs are wet on 1 & 2. So I did a compression test, have 120 psi on all 4 cylinders. I did replace the intake/exhaust gasket. Any guesses?
 
(quoted from post at 22:27:43 08/23/14) The gas has seemed to stopped coming back out the carb mouth. But the engine is only running on cylinders 3 & 4, can pulled 1 & 2 plug wires off & makes no difference. The spark plugs are wet on 1 & 2. So I did a compression test, have 120 psi on all 4 cylinders. I did replace the intake/exhaust gasket. Any guesses?
Bad plugs, plug wires, firing order, bad cap, timing(???)
Pull the wire get a new plug and check for spark. If you have a good spark change the plug.
Place wire 3 on terminal 2 to see if it is the wire. If it follows the wire they are bad
Check the cap for carbon or crap.
Just thoughts and easy to do.
 
Sprayed brake clean around the intake/exhaust manifold, engine did not rev up, so Im assuming that its sealed to the cylinder head. Took spark wires off the W450 that runs. Still no better. Put the old cap & rotor back on, have spark on all 4 now. When I pull wires on each cylinder, can hear a difference in the way the engine runs. Set the screw on the bottom on the float bowl to 2/5 turns out. Set the other screw to 1.5 turns out. Seems to getting better, but there is flutter/miss every once & awhile. I don't have a timing light, I marked where the dist was. Moved it back & forth till it sounded better. The flutter/miss is still there, but not all the time. Can the governor & dist does this?
 
I tried spark plugs out the W450 that's sitting right beside it. Made no difference. Ordered a carb, put it on with a fuel filter. It ran better, but still not great. Seemed like a miss still. For some reason above idle, # 2 doesn't have spark. I have install pertroinx ign. It works great on the SW6 I did 2 years ago. Most have got a faulty one for the H. Put the points back in, miss is gone. Will call pertroix on this one. I don't know much about this H as we got it used. Thought the fuel tank was clean, boy was I wrong. The carb I rebuilt is full of crap from the tank. Maybe there was nothing wrong with it, maybe there was. Figured to be safe with new rebuilt carb I ordered to have a filter just in case. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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