F14 timing questions recommended plug?

I'm a bit more used to green stuff & need some advice!

Working on an F14 for a friend. Worked on the mag. Really didn't have much wrong with it just that it had sat for years unused & needed cleaned & general service work. Cleaned distributor part, loosened up a stuck brush, cleaned, polished & set the points, charged the magnet & it works very nicely (brilliant blue 3/16" spark) but the tractor still would not start! Finally took the plugs that were in it (not really badly fouled. Just some plain old black dry carbon. Put in a mix of old junk drawer plugs of different heat ranges. All Champions. One W16, a W18 and two W20's. That got it running so carb adjustments (smoked like a steam tractor) could be made and after THAT it re-started rather easily HOWEVER....

Timing lever moves from maybe 11 O'clock (cut off) to 1 O'clock but it is NOT at all happy if it is anywhere past 12! I installed the mag so the impulse trips about 1/8" after TDC but I wonder.... is it MORE important on these to set mag on it so points are just opening when timing box is at cutoff? If set there the impulse trip is quite a bit ADC. The TDC mark is actually clear past the timing hole when set that way!

Maybe that's correct? The MAG seems to make a bit better spark at full advance than it does at full retard but the engine is not at all happy at full advance!

Also, what plug to use? I've searched for over an hour here & have found its easier to walk to some store & look in a book to determine MFG recommended plug! I thought this would be an easy task on the internet. What a dope I proved to be! Can find a thousand places willing to sell me whatever plugs or provide cross reference charts from plug brand to plug brand but find a chart that says use a model FBK238 plug for your 1928 Model T862 tractor..... Might as well talk to me shoe!

Thanks in advance for your advice!

BUCK, Timing should be spark at TDC, this will correct your lever.
W 14 was the plug used, BUT in these old farmalls that don"t work hard anymore it will run better with W20 a hotter plug keeps it from loading up. oldiron29

Copied from the archives. I used this same method, except I didnt use the flywheel.

There is a hole in the flywheel housing at about the 4 o'clock position as viewed from the driver's seat. Sight through this hole and you can see timing marks on the flywheel. You might need a good flashlight, these marks can be hard to see if the flywheel is dirty. Line up the "DC#1" mark on the flywheel with the register mark on the housing. Check to make sure the #1 piston is on the compression stroke (both valves closed) as it will also line up 180 degrees out. The easiest way to do this is to pull the plug on #1 and put your thumb over the plug hole and feel for compression as the piston comes up, and then get the marks lined up on the flywheel to get it exactly on TDC.

On coupling side of the mag there is an oil cup just above the drive coupling. Open the cap and use a small finish nail to lift the pawl of the impulse coupling to disengage it.

Set the advance mechanism/points cover up as high as it will go, (fully retarded) and then remove it, being careful not to change the position of the points plate.

Rotate the magneto clockwise (as viewed from the coupling end) until the points rubbing block is on the highest point of the cam, and set the point gap to .013"

Set the magneto and drive coupling back on the engine bracket, and loosely replace the bolts in the magneto housing.

Remove the distributor block/cap and rotate the magneto clockwise at the coupling end until the rotor lines up with the number one plug wire tower (Top left as viewed from the inside of the distributor block) and the points just begin to open.

Being careful not to move anything, locate the two holes in the coupling that align. The holes in one part of the coupling are slightly off set from the holes in the other part, so only two will line up accurately. Insert the screws. If you have to force things, you're not on the right set of holes, and the setting will move.

Tighten everything down and replace all the covers and the spark control lever.

You should be timed well enough to start at this point.

To double check, fully retard the spark (lever all the way up) take the points cover off and crank until the points just start to open. If the timing is correct, the DC mark on the flywheel will line up with the register mark on the housing.

As I get older its harder for me to see when the points are opening.If I can make the mag snap as the timing mark on the flywheel is lined up,is this the same

jimmy

Kinda thought they'd like that W20 a bit better. I know guys grumble of the D16 fouling up in their JD A & B tractors as they parade along. Champion recommends the D21 which I use & don't have troubles. Thanks for the recommendation.

Jimmy, I have set the F"s with the snap sound at TDC. Have done some with the head off so you can see when piston is TDC. Also the crank pin in front pully TDC when pin is horizontal. But still need to twick most of them some once runing. I get the best timing when running and I can find the sweet spot as it will run smooth at that spot not before and not after. Than you know witch way to move your timing. On most F"s
if the flywheel has not been pulled and cleaned I can not see the flywheel timing mark.
oldiron29

I used to be a huge fan of Champion plugs, but their quality control has severely gone downhill over the past few years. I now use Autolite 3077's but they are getting real hard to find. Autolite 3076's will do a fine job and are relatively cheap.

Others have posted good info on timing, so I have nothing to add to that part.