Farmall M clutch issues

Putting new clutch in a M. Went from a 11" clutch to a 12". Flywheel from a 400. Flywheel resurfaced, New pilot and throwout bearings, reman clutch disk and pressure plate. Went together easy till rear engine plate was a 1/4" from bell housing. Pulled it back apart pressure plate hitting belly pump tank. Tractor has the live hydraulic pump on it, using belly pump as tank. Pressure plate is not splined like a T/A tractor. Pilot bearing fit imput shaft. Spline's on clutch disk fit also. So 1 of 3 things is going on. #1 12" clutch won't work in a tractor with a belly pump? #2 I ordered or using wrong clutch parts combination? #3 I ordered correct parts got sent wrong one's? Y'all the experts what did I do wrong?
 
I believe they changed the belly pump slightly on the super m's to address the problem you ran into. Slater knows the answer I am sure.
 
Very late M, SM, SMTA, 400, and 450's flywheels should interchange.

Belly pump reservoir was changed to accomodate the larger clutch in the late M's and SM's. Part number should end in -EE to work with the larger clutch. This housing was also then used as a replacement part on the M's with the smaller clutch.

To my knowledge, the only pressure plate that will clear the belly pump in the late M/SM's is one made for a belly pump tractor. The pressure plate for a live pump SM will not clear the belly pump reservoir. My neighbor brought over a cob-job SM with a belly pump that instead of using the correct pressure plate someone took a grinder to the wrong one and also to the belly pump housing. Ruined a pressure plate and a pump reservoir.


AG
 
If you can get by without the side openings on the reservoir? I have a M with a hydraulic unit gutted with a casting number ending in DD that I use around the place and with the 12 inch clutch. Just use the top and bottom made opening. Used 1/2 inch by 3/4 wide bar steel. Drilled to match the 3 bolt holes in each side of the bottom clutch housing. Then used longer bolts to retain housing and rear cover tin. That clears the 12 inch clutch without finding a late m or SM pump housing.
 
Is ditching the belly pump altogether a possibility? You could install a couple gallon hydraulic tank somewhere else on the tractor and have 33% more capacity.
 
Correction, after looking I also have a 3/16 thick 3/4 wide piece along with the 1/2 inch thick 3/4 wide one between the housings. Also plugged side openings with sunk head plugs.
In parts and pieces on this site is a picture of a unit made to clear that I posted long ago. white marks is how they are made different.
Search 53 Super M hydraulic reservoir. You can see the casting number and date code.
 
I've looked at a few pictures. My Pump guts still in housing appears coupler was removed that drive's pump. It was using a port in bottom to feed live hydraulic pump and 2 return lines on side's. I'm thinking your Idea of pulling the guts make a plate to cover turning pump into just a tank and making a spacer to drop it down is the way to go. I might even be able to drill and tap pump housing for side fittings so I can use the side port hole' s in clutch housing. If not I can go threw top.Thanks for the help.
 
Thought about that but like the tank out of the way. And other
then fitment of the bigger clutch never had any issues with the
hydraulics with the pump guts still in there lowering oil
capacity. I think I'm going to try Slaters Idea and gut the pump
then make a spacer to drop pump housing down some giving
me clearance for clutch.
 

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