Farmall Regular Clutch Adjustment

FarmallCT

Member
Hi, I've finally gotten to working on my 1930 Farmall Regular and the problem im having is the three fingers on the clutch are not even with each other which is preventing it from completely disengaging. What i need to know is how do i adjust the fingers and to what specification and do i need a special tool to do it with? I also have the carb and fuel bowl which keep leaking when i turn the gas on. Is it okay to use gasket maker on both the carb and the fuel bowl? If not is there something that would work? Thanks for the help. Matt
 
FarmallCT,

Hope this helps... I don't know the specific part names... but I did watch, listen and document with photos when my husband worked on the clutch of our 1931 Regular.

I know the finger-adjustment is made using the 3 large diameter "screws" on the back side...see photos below. (I do know he said something about putting a bolt into the clutch BEFORE removing it from the tractor... also marking how it was set before removing the clutch. I think the bolt was to turn to take some tension off the clutch fingers).

He made sure to set it all on steel plate when doing the measuring - to be certain it was flat so all measurements would be accurate.

I will try to remember to look in our book to see if I can find a spec on setting the clutch fingers.

I know he did a good job, because the clutch works great on our Regular.

Bolt installed and used to remove tension from clutch fingers (I THINK).
a164001.jpg" width="650"


A close-up of the 3 "screws" used to adjust fingers.
a164002.jpg" width="650"


This is that screw-unit removed and laid up by where it actually connects to the finger... just to show a view of the entire thing.
a164003.jpg" width="650"


This shows the clutch on the flat steel for measuring the height of the finger/top from the flat steel surface...
a164004.jpg" width="650"


I know he also built-up the clutch fingers where they make contact with what I believe is called the throw-out bearing and then ground them back into shape (ours were quite worn).

And he put the throw-out bearing on there to make sure he had clearance after adjusting the finger height, before putting the clutch back on the tractor.

AND IF I'M WRONG/MISUNDERSTOOD THE PROCESS...
HOPEFULLY SOMEONE on YT will jump in here and correct my information.
 
Thanks for all the information. I should be able to fix it now. My only question is what did he use to get the three screw-units out? I tried to take them out and adjust after compressing it but they wouldn't budge. I don't know if there is a special tool or anything for it. Any clarification on how to get it out would be great. Thanks.
 

If you take the pins out of the fingers the adjuster buttons will fall out. Then you can work on them and get them freed up. If you ruin one I have extras.
 
Husband said the same thing as cowman…

Pull the cotter key out of the pin holding the finger - then you can drive the holding-pin out. Then the screw-unit will drop out... it's a tapered unit.

He recommends taking your entire clutch apart and cleaning and lubricating everything.

Once it's all loosened up... then you put the screw-unit back in and do the measuring to set the fingers evenly. At this point, with everything being loose/oiled - you can just turn that adjustment screw with a regular flathead screwdriver.

He said don't put your cotter key back in right after you get the fingers evenly set. NEXT take the screw-unit back out and put it in a vice being careful NOT to turn it (so you don't change the setting).
Then tighten down the locking nut to the edge of the screw-unit.
Then you can reassemble it.
 
Okay. I should be able to fix it now. I just didn't know much about the procedure to adjust it. Thank you for all the help. I really do appreciate it. Thanks.
 
FarmallCT,

Forgot!!

Husband said regarding your carburetor...

Check your needle valve and seat.
Also check your float level... he had to slightly adjust the float arm on our carburetor because ours was leaking gas.

And yes... he did put a small amount of sealer on our carburetor - to keep it from sucking in air. (The gas leakage was cured by the float arm adjustment.
 

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