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300 burns up points

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have noticed that my 300 burns up points to the degree that they are pitted. And it will not start if left idle for several weeks. File the points and it starts right up. I have changed points after 40 hours or less. I have SH that is used more often and never have problem. The 300 is 12 volt. What could I look for?
 
Either use a ballast resistor on the coil supply, or use a 12v coil with no external resistor required. Your coil is probably either a 6v coil, or one designed for a resistor in the circuit. (it could also be internally shorted and acting like a 6v coil. Jim
 
I agree with the other gents. If points are constantly burning up prematurely, possible causes are a bad or totally open condenser (would also cause a weaker spark), or else the points are switching excess current possibly because you have a 6 volt coil and aren't using the necessary external series voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast resistor. (Or you could use a full true 12 volt coil no ballast required)

John T
 
I failed to mention I did replace the coil in May with a new 12 v. Then again yesterday I replaced with a new coil from Auto Zone. Previous had came from TSC. If I go with adding resistor where do iI enter it? upstream of positive conection?
thanks
 
If you really need a ballast resistor (I"m not nor can I say sitting here not knowing your coils LV primary resistance) Id add it in series BETWEEN the ignition switches IGN (to coil) output and the coils input so it (if necessary) drops 6 volts leaving 6 on a 6 volt coil (IFFF that what you have?? I cant say).

If changing coils to the correct coil (or coil + ballast) doesn"t cure the problem, Id suspect the condensor is weak or even a total open circuit (i.e. no capacitance).

How were those coils labeled?? "12 Volts" or "12 Volts not for use with ballast" or "12 Volts no ballast required" and if so, you shouldn"t need any extra ballast, so maybe a bad condensor is causing premature points burning or else the points are just junk??

John T
 
My first time in a forum so....

I have a farmall 300. It has been converted from a 6v to 12v system. It is shutting down sporadically. It needs points but these aren't burned out yet. We replaced the coil wire but that hasn't stopped the the shutting down.

Does any one have experience with this issue and how did you solve it?
 
(quoted from post at 08:02:32 07/27/14) My first time in a forum so....

I have a farmall 300. It has been converted from a 6v to 12v system. It is shutting down sporadically. It needs points but these aren't burned out yet. We replaced the coil wire but that hasn't stopped the the shutting down.

Does any one have experience with this issue and how did you solve it?
Click to expand...

Renée you should start a new thread on this. There is too little info on you post to even start. If your points are not burned or pitted why do you need new? Do you have spark when it shuts down or is it fuel related. Does it. Just cut out or does it kind of chug and stumble. Does it start right back up or do you need to let it sit.
 
Ah but there are 2 types of coils. One will say needs ballast resister the the other type will say no resister need. So you have to look at your coil and see what is says we can not do that for you LOL. If it says resister needed O'Reilly's auto part # VR-1 work well and is easy to mount
 
Is the coil hooked the correct way around? Polarity may be incorect. Condensor too. This problem sounds like it may turn out a little goofy.
 
The resistor goes in the supply wire running from the ignition switch to the coil +.

However if you install a resistor on a coil that does not require one for 12V operation, you will now for sure have a weak spark or no spark at all, and your engine may not even run.
 
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