400 project

Ejtodd

New User
Hey guys I'm finally getting started on my dads first tractor ( he gave it to me if that's a heads up on its condition). It hasn't ran it a least ten years. The motor was stuck but a little pb blaster and a week and it was freed up. I am a little curious about the compression. I know they don't have a lot but I can turn it over by spinning the fan. Should I be able to do this or is that normal? Also what is the steel tube that runs to the front of the engine from the carb? Thanks for any help! Hopefully I can get my garage cleaned out and it moved to my place. Then I can really get to work on it.
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Put a good grill on your shopping list George Barris couldn't make that right.
400 is a great machine. TA, and 2 pt system Super M power plus. You will love it when restored
 
Worthwhile project.Be prepared to spend money.The
"tube" you refer to is the governor/throttle
linkage.My advise: buy and read all the books you
can.Starting with service,parts,and owners manuals
BEFORE you turn a wrench...Post pics of the
'journey'. Good Luck!!
 
With the spark plugs installed you shouldn't be able to turn the
engine very easily. No matter though. With a tractor that has
sat that long and being one you want to restore and keep, you
are gonna want to tear that motor down. It will be a nice old
tractor when you are done, but you have some big expenses
coming your way. I bought a running 39 M a few years ago
that was pretty straight and ran okay. Needed tires and rims. I
didn't really do anything to the motor. By the time I had it
painted it was scary how much money I had in that tractor.
Looking at your tractor, if it needs tires and rims and an
overhaul just for starters, I could see you ending up with close
to $10,000 tied up. The little stuff adds up in a hurry. It is
crazy what stuff costs. Good luck!
 
The rings might be rusted into the pistons. Which means that they are not pushing out against the sleeves.You should plan on dropping the oil pan, removing the head and disconnecting the rod cap and pulling the pistons out. The $10k people are the ones who replace everything that they can remove. If this tractor is going to only do the light work on "SUNDAYS" you might only need to replace the rings and maybe the rod bearing because it is convenient. If you are not in any hurry, you can look for a tractor that will have good tires on it and not have to buy new ones. I have about $2500 in mine and it was about that condition.
SDE
 
Any of them should turn via the fan. How much resistance of new vs. worn is impossible to gauge over the internet.

If you're thinking of getting it running like it is, drop the oil pan first to clean out whatever gunk is at the bottom and check the oil pump pickup screen for blockage.

With the hood off and the plugs out you can see part of the wall on each cylinder. Look for surface rust or if one cylinder is particularly bad. Sounds like it was just lightly stuck and that does happen, but sometimes water will leak around exhaust and one cylinder will end up bad.

Also if it's been in that same spot for 10 years, before I moved it at all, I would crack the drain plugs on the rear, trans, and pto drive and drain the accumulated water.
 
I've to close to $10,000 in my M and never opened the motor. It is nice but it isn't perfect show quality either. It doesn't take long to add up if you get into the details and buy a lot of little parts.
 
Thanks for all the comments. I guess I have always wanted to
see it up and running again. I would like to paint it up but by no
means replace every part that isn't perfect. Just like to tinker.
 

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