Generator and Voltage Regulator for an H

I have a 1950 H which seems to have a mix of original and newer wiring. The generator is a Delco-Remy 1101355 and the cut-off relay is a Delco-Remy 1116766. It's still wired for 6V, uses a positive ground and has a magneto.

Since I'm not ready for a restoration (that's in the future sometime), I'm considering a simple re-wire job just to get the electrical system back up and running.

When I compare the tractor's current wiring to the generator and cut-off relay, it doesn't seem to match what I'm seeing published.

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It's a little tough, from the pictures, you can see that the 2 wires coming from the electrical box are landed on the F terminal of the generator and BAT of the cut-off relay. There is also a wire from the A terminal to the GEN terminal. BUT, there's also a wire from the F terminal on the generator to the F terminal of the cut-off. Why? Remove this?
 
Many times the "no charge" situation can be a 'non-grounded" light switch box and/or the 4-way switch not grounded in the box.
 
The short wire from field to cutout is hooked to a resistor inside the cutout. That resistor is intended to be used when your tractor has no lights, just a starter. With no lights you would not have a light switch to control charge rate thus by hooking to that terminal on cutout you would have a permanent low charge situation. Some one in the past has had a no charge situation and found out that by hooking to that terminal he could get a low charge. What you need to do is get a good ground at the light switch so high and low charge both work. Realize, the light switch has to ground to the cover, cover to box, box to post, post to transmission. I often run a ground wire right from back side of switch right back to the generator to eliminate all rusty connections. Of course you have to know if generator works so ground that field wire direct. If it charges then generator is probably ok. If not either generator is bad or other side of wiring back through amp meter to battery.
 
That could be part of my problem. So since I have lights and a battery I can eliminate that wire.

I think next I'll do the "motor" test on the generator. From what I'm reading, if I can run the generator as a motor it should charge.

What about the cut-out relay? I see various posts about VR's, how does one go about testing the cut-out relay?

Does anyone know of any old documents on the internet from Delco-Remy for this generator and cut-out relay?
 
"I think next I'll do the "motor" test on the generator. From what I'm reading, if I can run the generator as a motor it should charge."


ACTUALLY, its my opinion that its ONLY if it passes BOTH Motor Tests (see my Troubleshooting Procedure below) it should charge. The first shows if the armature and brushes are good while the second shows the field windings condition.

"What about the cut-out relay? I see various posts about VR's, how does one go about testing the cut-out relay?"

If the cutout relay is working (a VR also has a cutout relay inside it remember) when the tractor isn't running there would be hot battery voltage on the BAT terminal but none on the GEN/ARM terminal (unless its stuck closed). Then once running iffffffffff the genny and all else is wired correct and working, the normally open relay closes so theres voltage on BOTH the BAT and GEN/ARM terminals, but once shut down the relay if working should open.

John T
John Ts Troubleshooting
 
Those #s are original stuff. Now you can run it wired the way its is wired now just adjust the third brush for your charging amps you want. Make sure the lite sw is also grounded likewise the gen and cutout. Mite need to clean the cut outs points and adjust for gap so it will close when engine is running. Some even ground the field and set the third brush for out-put. Tons of those charging systems are running that way. The cutout can be bench tested by putting 6v on the gen terminal and having the cutout grounded.
 

Your generator and voltage regulator set-up are NOT original to a 1950 H. A 1950 should have the voltage regulator mounted on the rear fuel tank support. Just ahead of your feet.

Not trying to be the "correct police" here, because if it works, it really doesn't matter where it is mounted.
 
(quoted from post at 06:26:20 07/02/14)
Your generator and voltage regulator set-up are NOT original to a 1950 H. A 1950 should have the voltage regulator mounted on the rear fuel tank support. Just ahead of your feet.

Just curious (not that I'm changing anything), when did IH change from one location to the other? Which mounting method came first? According to my S/N, my H was made sometime early in 1950.
 
Serial number break for regulator mounted on steering post is middle production in 1950 so he could very well have a high low switch with a cut out mounted on generator and be original.
 
Well, I pulled the generator off the H and tried the motor test - nothing moved. So I took it apart, blew out all the gunk, checked the brushes and for broken wires. It all looks pretty good.

So, I'm assuming it's off a re-builder, but is there anything else I can try first?

How can I check the field? How about the armature?

I have a digital multi-meter for testing.
 

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