replace belly pump with woodsplitter pump

Hi,
Has anybody ever replaced an original belly pump with say, for example, a woodsplitter pump, or gear pump in its place? I guess since the PTO shaft is gear reduction, it would make a lot of pressure, but would it run my loader really, really unbearably slow? I tried to run it off the crankshaft pulley, but it could only make about 300 psi before the belt would slip. Thanks for any input.
 
Hi,
No, not necessarily. I'm just going to be doing some landscaping and occasional odds and ends with a full hydraulic loader. I thought I might need power steering, but I have the loader and bucket on, and it's actaully not to bad to steer
 
Hi,
Thanks for the link. I did actually see that pump on Ebay too. It would probably be the easiest. I got a really nice gear pump that came with the loader that used to run off the front of the engine of the Oliver 550 it was originally on. I was just trying to go the cheap route and use it, but I'm about ready to give up on it and maybe buy something
 
What tractor? There is a thread on Red Power where a guy has installed a crankshaft driven pump in the front pedestal casting on an M. Might work on an H to if you have the right size pump.
 
Hi,
There is actually a guy here locally on Craigslist with one of those pumps off of a 350 LP for $125. Sounds like I would have to change the timing cover too. I was told my H is a 1947, but I never actually checked. Do you know, do you take the front of the tractor off to get the crank pulley off? Thanks

Jason
 
Keep the pump you have, install a sprocket on the
crank in front of the belt, put a sprocket on the
pump you have and run it with a chain. Mount a
tensioner on the frame rail. I've seen it done like
that a few times.
 
Hi,
That is a good idea, I would be able to still use most of the stuff I already made, the rest I can get at Fleet Farm
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Yes I would keep that setup just change over to
chain drive. If you have enough adjustment to get
good tension on the chain you could possibly get
away with not having a tensioner on it. If I can
find them, I have some pictures I will share of
similar setups.
 

If you are wanting to use a belt driven pump, the pump needs to be a "Vickers" vane style pump. A gear pump does not work very well with a belt drive.
 
TOH who mostly posts on the Ford boards uses a toothed belt on his live hydraulics kit for a N Ford.
google
Hokie-Hydraulics
maybe that style setup would work for you.
 
Keep in mind that a woodsplitter pump is designed to be directly attached to a small engine that is turning ~3600RPM.

I don't know how fast the countershaft on an H or M turns, but it certainly isn't anywhere near 3600RPM. The pump will lose most of its capability.
 
Hi,
Yeah the more I thought about it, I think you would have to gear it up somehow, or it would be really, really slow, (but powerful). It looked to me like the countershaft that runs the belly pump turned about the same speed as the PTO. Thanks for the input.

Jason
 
Hi,
Do you know if there is a good way to tell the old and new style timing covers apart? There is a guy about an hour from me selling one of those pumps for $125, I would probably still try that too, if I could just bolt it in Thanks

Jason
 
Hi,
Thanks much for posting that picture. If for some reason my set-up doesnt work, I"m going to weld a sprocket to the belly pump coupling, with a chain to a shaft like the one in picture going to the pump, with the pump bolted to the boss under the transmission with the 3 bolt holes. Hopefully it wont come to that. It wouldn"t be live, but I would be able to gear it up if I had to. Thanks again

Jason
 

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