fire out of exhaust

K

KarlO

New User

• May 22, 2014

• #1

I have a Farmall A that starts and idles really nice. But as soon as I put it under a load it sounds like it's missing, and sometimes it will pop out of the exhaust and fire can be seen coming out of the exhaust as well.

I've been reading that I might be running lean, but there is no adjustment on the TSX157 carb to test that easy. I also have the opportunity to talk with the son-in-law of the original owner who actually worked with this tractor. He says it might be running lean because he's not sure if one needs to run richer with unleaded fuel.

Or it could be running lean because I have a vacuum leak, but I did test that by spraying starter fluid at every joint and listening for a change while it was running... but there was no change.

Or maybe running lean is not the problem at all. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

S

Seeing Red

Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

re-set the points and timing

 

K

kennytractor

Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

I don't think that is the correct carb number. I'm pretty sure the model A should have a Zeneth carb.

 

OP

OP

K

KarlO

New User

• May 22, 2014

• #1

I'm sure it's the TSX157 because that's what the brass button says that is riveted on it.

 

OP

OP

K

KarlO

New User

• May 22, 2014

• #1

That sounds like a great idea. I've done a quick search on how to do that on a C113 engine, but didn't see anything. I'll search deeper, but I don't suppose you have a quick link on the procedure?

 

B

Bob

Well-known Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

Does it have a magneto or a distributor?

 

OP

OP

K

KarlO

New User

• May 22, 2014

• #1

I'm pretty sure it is a distributor. I'll check when I get home for sure.

 

Janicholson

Well-known Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

Static timing is set with it not running on TDC compression #1 cylinder. The centrifugal advance (distributor only) is much farther advanced, and is controlled by weights and springs in the distributor (under the breaker mounting plate) The rotor should feel springy if turned clockwise (less than 10 degrees) if it does this, and returns to where it was before, it is probably OK. If it does not turn, or turns and stays in either direction, it needs advance system repair (or a rebuilt distributor) Having no advance will make it do the flame trick! Jim

 

OP

OP

K

KarlO

New User

• May 22, 2014

• #1

Thanks. I'll check that before I do anything more drastic.

 

R

redforlife

Well-known Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

flames are caused by the missing. so missing is the problem. and cause of the missing could be lean fuel. but other causes could also be on the spark side, or valves. valves are un-likely because of normal run at idle.

 

R

rustyfarmall

Well-known Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

(quoted from post at 10:47:25 05/22/14) I don't think that is the correct carb number. I'm pretty sure the model A should have a Zeneth carb.

Click to expand...

Either a Zenith or a Marvel-Schebler TSX 157 would be correct.

 

L

LMack

Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

If that is a Carter carburetor get yourself another carburetor.

 

G

gene bender

Well-known Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

Better check wires to make sure they are in the rite order then check timing its not the gas and its not too lean.

 

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

POINTS ARE BAD. NEW SET, SET TO 20, PULL PLUGS SET TO 25. SHOULD ELIMAINATE PROBLEM.

 

OP

OP

K

KarlO

New User

• May 22, 2014

• #1

Yes, it's a distributor.

 

OP

OP

K

KarlO

New User

• May 22, 2014

• #1

The advance seems to be working fine. Move it forward and it springs back freely. No wobble either.

 

Janicholson

Well-known Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

Good, is it in time?

 

OP

OP

K

KarlO

New User

• May 22, 2014

• #1

I'm pretty sure the wires are correct. If number 1 is at the fan end it fires 1,4,3,2... Holy cylinders bat man! It's supposed to be 1.3.4.2!

Sheesh, I've got the carb in the shop and I can't try it until tomorrow. Boy do I feel sheepish. When I changed the plugs I must've put the wires on wrong. The length of the wires fit much better as 1,4,3,2 (I didn't change them). It's been running like this since the beginning of last summer. I can't believe it starts and idles so well.

 

OP

OP

K

KarlO

New User

• May 22, 2014

• #1

Does one use a timing light to set the time?

 

M

M.Genrich

Member

• May 22, 2014

• #1

I had a like problem with a 656 hydro that I overhauled a few years ago. It ran fine until it was under a load on a feed grinder then it would start to miss spit sputter and then die. thirty second later it would start right up and run fine again until you put a load on it. That was the day I learned that D21 plugs were to hot for a engine in good shape under a load. put a set of D15Y plugs in it and its ran fine every since.

 

M

mkirsch

Well-known Member

• May 23, 2014

• #1

(quoted from post at 20:20:14 05/22/14) Does one use a timing light to set the time?

Click to expand...

You can, but on the old 4-cylinder engines with their loose distributors, you can find yourself chasing your tail.

Start with static timing, then fine-tune by ear until the tractor runs the best and accelerates the best when you rev it up.

 

D

David G

Well-known Member

• May 23, 2014

• #1

I find the same issue on my EFI tractor with wasted spark if I get miss fires. You are firing on the exhaust stroke for 2&3.