Farmall A Runs and dont

Rod1555

New User
looking for a little advice. I have a farmall A that is proving to be more difficult than I think it needs to. It will start when I have the throttle open all the way and the choke on. It runs like crazy but if I push the choke in or throttle down it dies instantly. I bought the tractor last fall and it ran fine the guy I bought it from had put 350bucks in the carb in 2012 (I saw the receipt). I have had the carb apart half a dozen times and the governor once and the results have not changed a bit. I did put a new manifold on it and I have taken it off and blown through the ports (grasping at straws). I am accepting any and all ideas thanks
 
Two possibilities:

1. The carburetor is screwed up, and you're screwing it up even worse the more you futz with it.

2. The problem is before the carburetor.

Check your fuel flow! Some crud in the tank, or a plugged up sediment bowl, or a plugged fuel line, or no fuel in the tank, or even as simple as the fuel being turned off.

You should be able to take the fuel line off the carburetor and redirect it into a catch can. It should flow a pencil-size stream of gasoline solid for as long as there is fuel in the tank.
 
fuel flow is fine and the carb floods over however I would like to see more gas at the plugs. I actually drained the tank and dumped it in one of the others and that one runs fine but I put new fuel in anyhow.
 
Carb floods, how?

Are we talking about a few drips gas when you try to start it with lots of choke, or gas just pouring out all the time?

Put your palm over the carburetor intake. Do you get good suction?

You could have a leaking intake, stuck valves, stuck rings, low compression. The engine needs to create suction to pull the fuel/air mix into the cylinders.

Get a compression checker and do a compression test.
 
Does it have a Mag or Dist? If Magneto it may be set to far advanced or not far enough, thus causing things to open and close faster.
 
Let's make a summary of some of the info that has been posted:

1.) compression, check all cylinders. Should be within 10% +/- of each other
2.) Is the intake leaking anywhere.
3.) is there good gas flow TO the carb. Is the screen plugged where the fuel line goes?
4.) mag can only be adjusted about 10 degrees. It is either in time or 180 degrees out. battery ignition can be adjusted way more than a mag.
5.) valves sticking or out of adjustment.
6.) is the governor working correctly.

You problem sounds like fuel. but checking those other items certainly will not hurt, and will give you absolutely where you are with the key parts of the engine.
 
You won't get a pencil sized stream for long. It can only flow what comes through the seat which is a small hole. It should be steady for a long time.
 
(quoted from post at 06:43:10 04/22/14) You won't get a pencil sized stream for long. It can only flow what comes through the seat which is a small hole. It should be steady for a long time.

The needle valve and seat opening and closing is a function of the gas level in the carb. The flow is regulated by the rise and fall of the carb float. If the flow stops before the carb reservoir fills, then you have a clog in the fuel delivery system; ie the line or the carb passage back to the tank has an obstruction.
 

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