Farmall 450 block in a M

No problem except for a few changes. But is this a bare block, short block, long block or what?
Can give more details if answered.
 
Complete 450 engine. The governor or governor control arm needs changed. Choke rod bent to work on the other side of carburetor if using the 450 one. If using a ignition drive housing and not a engine driven hydraulic pump. You need a housing from a SM or a M from sometime in 1950 or newer unless your M has one that new to fit the 450 bolt pattern. Housing will have a cast # ending with R1 to fit the 450. Run a PVC hose from the 450 valve cover to the air cleaner intake pipe side opening.
Unless the M is late enough to have a 12 inch clutch and a liftall housing to clear a 12 inch clutch use the M flywheel and clutch. If not using a hydraulic unit in the clutch housing or a late housing to clear a 12 inch you can use the 450 flywheel but need the 12 inch clutch for a SM. Wouldn't recommend using a M distributor on the 450 engine if it still has 40 degree advance parts in it.
 
Did forget, change the oil pressure line fitting to the M one before installing the frame rail. Makes it easier anyway. Also a 450 manifold sometimes needs a little web grinding for the m throttle rod that passes between it and the head to not rub. Or the rod bent some. Sometimes the head studs on a 450 are not long enough for the M throttle bracket and a full nut.
Have in the past when running into that problem and couldn't get the head studs out to put longer ones in without head removal. Used long nuts like used on some spring U bolts on the head studs and torque down. Drill the bracket mounting holes big enough to pass over the nuts and rest against the head. Use short bolts in the long nuts above the stud with spacers cut from 1 inch thin wall pipe and a flat washer to hold the throttle bracket down.
 

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