Getting points open to measure gap

clint s

Member
Just wonder how all you all get you points open to measure the gap. Today I got it close with the starter, put it in 4th and pushed it over with the back tire to get the points on the bump and open. Then I measured, set and cleaned. Seemed to run better. It was a bit wide so probably worn a bit. We will see how it handles the spreader next week. FWIW it is a 200
 
I usually use the hand crank to turn the engine until the points are open, but then all my tractors have hand cranks. On those few that did not have hand cranks, I just turned the engine over by hand by holding the fan belt tight with one hand and turning the fan with the other. This usually works to turn the engine over enough to open the points.
 
I tired that, but the fan is belt driven and the belt just slips.
I will try and hold the belt tighter next time. Don't think there is a hand crank on it. Moving it in 4th with the rear tire was not all that hard and got the job done.
 
As the points wear the contacts widen some, but the rubbing block wears them closer. Both are at play. A dab of grease on the rubbing block of the points the size of a wooden match head on the side that the cam approaches, helps wear. Jim
 
You have to be really careful, but on my 450 I just get a big Stilson wrench and put it on the front of the crankshaft that protrudes toward where the hand crank would fit into it (if it worked), and slowly nudge it either way. But be dead sure not to try this unless the ignition system really is disabled.
 
I use an old school remote starter switch to bump the stater solenoid. It works best with the transmission in neutral with the brakes locked, or in park.
 
On Farmall H and M tractors I use the hand crank to and get an assistant to watch the distributor cam. Works for magneto and coil ingition systems. Set the gap when the bakelite block is at the highest point of the cam on any cylinder. My experience with petrol and kerosene motors of all sorts is that breaker point gaps tend to close down with wear and spark plug gaps tend to open slightly. Setting the timing on a magneto engine is easy. Setting the timing on a coil ignition Farmall is something I have never done - all my tractors are magneto.
SadFarmall
 
clint, you did it exactly the right way.

We did the exact same thing to a 656 gas that had been sitting for 5 years. The fan belt wouldn't turn the big 6 cylinder engine over, so we put it in road gear and rocked it until the points opened.
 
> I always pull the distributor off and work on it
> on the bench where I can see.

I always just loosen the distributor clamp bolts and rotate it until the cam is on top of a lobe, but maybe you can"t do that on a 200.
 
(quoted from post at 04:10:37 04/15/14) Yes he did it, no, not exactly the right way.

Care to explain?

How else you going to do it?

You could spend hours bumping the starter trying to get it on a lobe.

The fan belt isn't enough to roll over some of these high-compression 6-cylinder engines.

Why would you take the distributor off the tractor, or rotate it? You just messed up your timing!
 
Well, I don't know whether anyone did anything 'wrong' here, but taking the distributor off is not an issue so far as timing is concerned because changing the point gap alters the timing in any case.

The narrower the point gap, the earlier the points will open.
The wider the point gap, the later the points will open.
The moment you alter the gap, you change the timing.

If you have a dwell angle meter, you can see the change even .001" increase or decrease in point gap causes.

I do not have data for six cylinder engines, but on a four cylinder engine .004" change in the point gap alters the timing by approximately 3 degrees.

SadFarmall
 
If he can't turn that little motor on a 200 over with the fan belt
that's the first thing I would address. Second, it's best to be
able to turn the motor over by hand to get it close then turn it a
little both ways while your standing over the distributer to make
sure the points are riding on the highest point of the lobe, not
just close enough while your trying to push a tire and watch. I
dont know if the 200 has a bolt in the front of the crank you
can get a deep socket on or not and turn the motor that way.
He said the crank pully is pressed on so maybe not. Like I
said, it works how he did it, but you said he did it "exactly right"
and I don't believe that statement is true.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top