1086 TA removal

Hi guys,

I just became involved in trying to replace a TA in a friend's 1086. He already has it split at the clutch, but we're not sure how to get the TA out. I tried finding info on the web, but haven't had any luck finding a procedure on how to do it. Is there a way of doing it without splitting it behind the transmission? If not, is there a way of patching or butchering it to get at least high working again? Cost is a big factor, trying to keep it as simple and cheap as possible. And yes, I know a manual is a valuable tool, but I need to know what I'm dealing with first.
 
You HAVE to split it between trans anr rear end.The
TA is the last to come out,and the first to back
in.As far as I know,there is no "easy fix".You need
a hoist,engine stand and a few 'special'
tools.Hopefully Tractor Vet will chime in.....
 
Ok i'll CHIME in . When doing a T/A om the 86's let the fun begin . Myself i NEVER start the split at the bell housing . There is a lot of work getting lines unhooked under the cab wires to unhook , blocking the rear end removal of the ft. cab mounts and having the stands to hold the cab in place . Then once ya have everything unhooked unbolted and supported then ya place a spliting stand that will MOVE and you drop the cover off the bottom to expose the PTO driven gear then you remove the bolts that hold the center section to the rearend and you move the bell housing and speed transmission still hooked to the engine forward , sometimes they will slide apart nice and easy and sometimes the don't and you have to wiggle and jiggle the PTO gear so that the shaft will come out of that gear . Then ya want to move the whole ft. of the tractor out about five to six feet . THen you use a A frame or a cherry picker and hook to the bell housing and speed transmission then you remove the ten bolts that hold the bell housing to the frame rails and engine plate . There are two 1/2 inch bolts that are on the back of the bell housing and you have eight bolts thru the frame rails . You can remove the top bolt closest to the frame rail and the bottom bolt closest to the frame rail , BUT DO NOT take the top bolt or the bottom bolt all the way out, they need to stay in there far enough so that they stick thru the engine rear plate to hold the engine up if not you will break the ft engine timing cover and the engine will hit the floor. But since he just jumped in and started tearing into this he has made for a lot more work. Myself i would remove the clutch and pressure plate and slide it back together and put for bolts back in and do it like i said . Once you have the center section out the you remove it from the engine . NOW to get to the T/A you have a bunch of nuts and bolts to remove and ALL them gears on the top shaft and the bottom shaft and all them spacers to remove and put back in when ya go back together . Once all the greas and shafts are out NOW you can remove the T/A and you will need and EYE bolt to LIFT it out and to set it back in . also the MCV valve body has to come off and you have to remove the three tubes that feed Hyd. oil to the T/A , oh and DON't loose the sump check plug spring as it is in the lower right hand corner of the MCV valve . Then ya got all them gaskets to clean off and clean everything and look everything over . Now it is time to start putting EVERYTHING back in and here it is NOT ok lets just STUFF it back together . You have to set the END play on the T/A unit and you have to have a dial indicator for this and either a 0-1 mic. to measure the shims or a dial caliper . Once you have that set and you start installing the bottom shaft what ever the thickness of shim ya used on the T/A ya have to put that shim in the correct place to shim the gear that set in to the T/A . In other words you both are in for and education . How costly of one that is yet to be seen . Your going to need a new IDPTO gear and a new clutch and pressure plate , the flywheel will need to be GROUND , myself i would install a NEW MCV pump along with a new spring kit in the MCV and all new gaskets and seals . Then the MCV pressure will need to be set . One other fine point is when you SLIDING everything back together you need to be vary careful about the Range transmission input bearing , IF you are not lined up dead on and have that bear roller held tight with a heavy rubber band wrapped around it you WILL knock a bearing off and NEVER know it Til ya hear the big kerbang in the range transmission and IF you lucky it will only whip out a gear or two if your unlucky it will make a new drain hole in the bottom of the housing .





OH YEA all most forgot one main important thing here GET A BOOK and Read it . This is why we get paid the big bucks to do this job.
 
Lovely. Thanks for the detailed answer Tractor Vet. I have all the tools and know-how (former ag mechanic), but nowhere close to the time to do it properly. I'll pass the info on, and see what he wants to do.
 
[i need to save tractor vets post so next time some one want me to do a ta they well know why i shake my head and cry but i dont by the 19hrs
 
Here are a few pictures of a stand that I have designed for doing a TA job on Farmall tractors. The TA handler makes a TA job a safe procedure. The basic steps that match the 3 pictures are:

The stand is fasten to the TA housing with 2 bolts.

TA can be easily rolled out from under the cab.

With the aid of a short 2 foot bar the TA housing can be rotated into a vertical position for removal of the TA assemble.

I've attached a link to more information about my stands. charlieu
a152304.jpg

a152305.jpg

a152306.jpg

nnalert more inf
 
I would like ordering information about the stands you designed, esp. one for splitting the t/a from the differential housing on a 450 or a 460. Thanks, Hugh McKinney, p.o. box 242, Hosston, LA 71043
 
Sort ah like that stand , but i have a set up that fits my engine stand and i can rotate the center section at a height that help eliminates bending over and i could work off the bench . My work area for working on engines and T/A's was set up in a U pattern With two work benches vice parts washer jib crane extra lighting and the main ingredient THE FRIDGE .
 
(quoted from post at 01:14:44 03/31/14) IIRC,IH states that 19 hrs labor on a cabless
tractor.'06/56/66 seriesThe 86 should be simlar.

86 series tractors TA R&I or replacement is 17.2 hrs with auxiliary fuel tank or 15.6 without the extra tank.

Keep in mind this time is for a new tractor that has been washed and is sitting in the shop stall. It also assumes an experienced mechanic with all the correct IH service tools.

This time does not include shimming to get the correct TA end play since this was something that the re-builders came up with to extend the life of their product. Another after market recommendation is drilling and installing a roll pin in the counter shaft nut.There is no provision for anything done to the MCV except for cleaning off the gasket and reinstalling.

By the time you allowed for washing, overhauling the MCV, replacing the clutch and rear main seal and a few other little things the average time charged was usually between 25 and 30 hours. Today when these tractors are 40 years old you would be lucky to be able to do the job in those time allowances.
 

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