Farmall 450

DVF · Feb 28, 2014

having some problems with my 450, after searching through some old posts here I have a pretty good idea what I have to do next. Crack in the head, blown head gasket, cracked block and cracked sleeve. Will they all cause bubbles in the radiator ?

DeltaRed · Feb 28, 2014

Yes.Time to pull the head....

DVF · Feb 28, 2014

Just did that, sent the head out, planed and
replaced a few valves. Not blowing white smoke
like I"m used to seeing on a head gasket and oil
is not rising, oil is milky after we change the
oil in about 3 days or so, tractor is on the
spreader right now. Think I"m gonna have to pull
the oil pan next. Thanks Deltared, would like to
see if I can get through to warmer weather seeing
my shop is the outdoors, lol. Put some bars leak
in today, and changed the oil. Will see if that
helps

Janicholson · Mar 1, 2014

Running with even a half cup of coolant in the oil can ruin the lower end. If it is just a wisp of coolant, and it heats out it still leaves residue in the oil that can degrade the lubricity. Jim

Tom Dowling · Mar 1, 2014

Milky oil? Do you keep the tractor outside? I thought I had a blown gasket or cracked head/block also, turned out it was rain water going in the seams of the muffler and around the threads of the pipe at the manifold. A flapper or can on the muffler isn't good enough. Loosen the oil drain plug a bit and see if you are getting green or clear water. If it's green your outa luck, if it's clear then it's rain water and you can change the oil, run tractor till warmed up and change it again. Then let it sit there and run an hour or so to steam out any remaining water. It worked good for me.

DVF · Mar 1, 2014

Tom, thanks, I do keep it inside. When I change the oil the last few times nothing comes out of the bottom before the oil. I suspect because we run the tractor every day for 1 hour or so it does not have a chance to seperate, I could be wrong. When I did the head gasket several months ago the tractor had time to sit and yes, anti-freeze came out. Just want to figure out what the problem is so I can get it fixed before we start hay.

DVF · Mar 1, 2014

Janicholson, yes. I have been changing the oil right now every few days. I am hoping to pull the pan on Wednesday. I read a few of your older post in regards to water in oil and putting a little pressure in the radiator via a cap. Was wondering if the radiator cap was on but not pressurized would that slow the leak? I could be wrong but kinda feel its a crack in the block or a cracked sleeve.

Janicholson · Mar 1, 2014

That would reduce the flow into the oil if the leak is not a compression leak from combustion gasses into the coolant. There are test kits from auto stores that test radiators for the presence of exhaust gasses. Cheap and accurate.
A cracked bore casting is possible allowing coolant to leak down between the sleeves and the cast bore. The coolant will be found dripping from the interface between the sleeve and the block. The solution for that is to have the block bored for a repair sleeve then that sleeve bored (and counterbored for the sleeve ring) to accept the original sleeve that is in the tractor.
That is a very successful and permanent repair.
If it is not a compression leak, I would try barsleak liquid to seal it up till the time it can be repaired correctly (follow the directions) Jim

DVF · Mar 1, 2014

Janicholson, thanks for the response. I will go to napa Wedneday and get that kit to test for gas in the radiator. Thanks again. Will report back Wednesday after I test to let you know what the results are.

Farmall 450

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DeltaRed

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Janicholson

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Tom Dowling

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Janicholson

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