farmall 300 engine rebuild

bill gaw · Feb 21, 2014

just bought this tractor engine is stuck working on getting it loose serial # on tractor is 6437 dsj engine serial# is 6440 d know this stands for high altitude pistons if i have to replace sleeves and pistons does anyone still make this type piston and what is the best way to pull the sleeves they are dry ones yes? thanks BILL

Zachary Hoyt · Feb 21, 2014

They are dry sleeves, many places offer rebuild parts including this site. Most I have seen are the C175 kit that came in a 350, they fit in the same bore but have a thinner sleeve. My 300 has those and I had to replace one sleeve and piston that were badly rusted together which was why the engine was stuck when I bought it. I maybe should have gone ahead and done all four but they had very little wear and I am a cheapskate.
Zach

jasinpa · Feb 21, 2014

i believe hight altiude pistons are still made , but youd be better off , if you are buying a kit go with the crater fire pistons ,probably cost less & give more power , used them in my M & im very happy , also most kits are what they call overbore which is 1/8 inch bigger just adds more cubic inch to engine, for instance turns a M into a factory super M

bill gaw · Feb 21, 2014

how did you pull the sleeves

bill gaw · Feb 21, 2014

do the crater fire piston give higher compression that what the high altitude ones do

Zachary Hoyt · Feb 21, 2014

The sleeve I removed was heavily rust pitted and I tapped it out in pieces with a big blunt old flathead screwdriver, from below. I have driven out good sleeves from Farmall H blocks with a piece of heavy wall pipe and a sledge, when the block was upside down on the floor. There are no doubt better ways, but I don't have machining skills. If you are not saving the sleeves you can run a bead of weld down one side of the sleeve and it will shrink, I have been told.
Zach

Tom Dowling · Feb 21, 2014

there are posts on this site that tell of easy ways to pull sleeves try typing sleeve puller or something like that

jasinpa · Feb 21, 2014

never tryed the weld trick on a sleeve but it would probably work, it works great on bearing races , i just made a sleeve pulling plate , used on a 24 inch long, 1/2 all thread w/ a 8 inch puller top, placed on 2 blocks of wood , its crude but works good , also to anyone whos new to these dry sleeves you will have to hone the cyl. after the sleeve is out because of it shrinking over time , they are considered slip fit & when done right they do just slip in there , snug but no big hammer required

Nebraska Kirk · Feb 21, 2014

(quoted from post at 21:28:04 02/21/14) never tryed the weld trick on a sleeve but it would probably work, it works great on bearing races , i just made a sleeve pulling plate , used on a 24 inch long, 1/2 all thread w/ a 8 inch puller top, placed on 2 blocks of wood , its crude but works good , also to anyone whos new to these dry sleeves you will have to hone the cyl. after the sleeve is out because of it shrinking over time , they are considered slip fit & when done right they do just slip in there , snug but no big hammer required

Do NOT hone the bore after removing the sleeve!! If you do then the sleeve will be loose. If the sleeve goes in all the way with just hand pressure then it is too loose and you WILL have a catastrophic failure later on. The dry sleeves are supposed to be a press fit, you will be able to push them in 1/3 to 1/2 of the way by hand but you need to press them in the rest of the way with a hydraulic press.

jasinpa · Feb 21, 2014

im not saying to hone them till there loose , but i can tell ya i been a machinest for 20 years in the engine shop now, was trained by the old guys that worked on these when they where still new , & my H & M are done as a slip fit liner just like a detroit diesel is with no problem , just check out the machinest manual it will tell ya the bore with out sleeve, of coure you will need a good bore gauge to check it with , but if it is honed by a machine to the size IH says it should be that liner once you get it started will slip right in to the bottom might need a lite tap to get that last inch , there is no real clearence there though , you dont need no press , think about that statement if you have to press it in ,it will get tighter to the piston even a 1 or 2 thousands could cause piston once hot to gauld to the cyl. wall, now that will cause damage , if you can get it in without cracking that thin liner , you do what you want , but i have 2 great running tractors & 20 years in the machine shop

D Slater · Feb 22, 2014

IH probably quit selling those pistons 50 years ago. probably can't find any unless a NOS set.
Very unlikely that type piston is still in the engine. 3-5/8 replacement piston with a smaller piston pin is the common replacement now. if your rods don't already have the adapter piston pin bushings installed and in usable condition. With the 3-5/8 you will also need those with that low serial number.

Tom Dowling · Feb 22, 2014

when you get around to installing the sleeves freeze them first and they will go in easy and tighten up when they warm up

El Toro · Feb 22, 2014

Your local auto machine shop can press them out using a hydraulic press. Your cam bearings may need replacing too. Hal

farmall 300 engine rebuild

bill gaw

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Zachary Hoyt

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jasinpa

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bill gaw

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bill gaw

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Zachary Hoyt

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Tom Dowling

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jasinpa

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Nebraska Kirk

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jasinpa

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D Slater

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Tom Dowling

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El Toro

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