Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
do i need to split the tractor? to replace the clutch and pressure plate? it is slipping and I am not farmilier with them. thanks Pete
- Thread starter Anonymous-0
- Start date
SadFarmall
Member
According to the Servicemans Guide:
Clutch is removable through an opening in bottom of clutch housing. The procedure is as follows:
1). Remove four bolts from the clutch joint. (Marked 1 in picture)
2). Remove clutch release sleeve carrier. (Marked 2 in picture)
3). Remove clutch shaft together with thrust bearing.
4). Remove three cap screws holding clutch to flywheel and after placing washers under the head of cap screws replace transpose them to the three holes provided for compressing the clutch spring.
5). Remove the remaining cap screws and lift out clutch.
6). Reassembly is made in the reverse procedure, but be sure to install clutch shaft before releasing pressure on clutch springs and be sure to assemble clutch joint ring with convex side toward clutch.
Good Luck! SadFarmall
Clutch is removable through an opening in bottom of clutch housing. The procedure is as follows:
1). Remove four bolts from the clutch joint. (Marked 1 in picture)
2). Remove clutch release sleeve carrier. (Marked 2 in picture)
3). Remove clutch shaft together with thrust bearing.
4). Remove three cap screws holding clutch to flywheel and after placing washers under the head of cap screws replace transpose them to the three holes provided for compressing the clutch spring.
5). Remove the remaining cap screws and lift out clutch.
6). Reassembly is made in the reverse procedure, but be sure to install clutch shaft before releasing pressure on clutch springs and be sure to assemble clutch joint ring with convex side toward clutch.
Good Luck! SadFarmall
Sad Farmall gives you good instructions. However, I found it next to impossible to get the clutch shaft out and back in without removing the clutch release fork and the cross shaft that it is mounted on. The cross shaft is removed by removing the clamp bolts in the release fork that secure it to the cross shaft. There are two heavy washers that serve to key the fork to the shaft. When the bolts and washers are out, you can slide the shaft out the side of the clutch housing. That is after you disconnect it from the pedal linkage.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
YOU CAN TAKE CLUTCH OUT WITH OUT SPLITING IT IF IT HAS A 11" CLUTCH. iF IT HAS A 12" CLUTCH YOU WILL HAVE TO SPLIT IT. iF YOU DON'T SPLIT IT THE HEAVIEST THING IS GETTING THE HYDRAULIC PUMP OUT OF THE BOTTOM OF THE BELL HOUSING.
Owen Aaland
Well-known Member
First make sure you have free pedal travel, about an inch measured at the platform. If you have no free travel you may be able to get by with just an adjustment.
The H and M model tractors do not need to be split to replace the clutch, however on the M with a 12 inch clutch you will only be able to replace the disk, not the pressure plate assembly.
If you the necessary stands and/or equipment it may be easier to just split the tractor to replace the clutch. One advantage of replacing the clutch by splitting is you will be able to resurface the flywheel and service the rear main seal if necessary.
The H and M model tractors do not need to be split to replace the clutch, however on the M with a 12 inch clutch you will only be able to replace the disk, not the pressure plate assembly.
If you the necessary stands and/or equipment it may be easier to just split the tractor to replace the clutch. One advantage of replacing the clutch by splitting is you will be able to resurface the flywheel and service the rear main seal if necessary.
I'm working on my neighbours SM, he brought me the disc only. Not a tractor mechanic, but an auto/hd truck. I have the cover off the bottom, took out the cross shaft, remove bolts that go to input shaft to transmission coupler. Caged the pressure plate springs, now I can move the input shaft around. Unbolted the pressure plate from the flywheel, got it to come back. I cant get the input shaft back far enough to get the disc to drop down. Do I have take the coupler/yoke off at the transmission side to get the shaft back farther? Since this is a Super M, I know the pressure plate wont come out the bottom. Books I have & read online say the disc will come out the bottom. The new disc is 11". Thanks for any help.
Neighbour got the wrong disc!, about 2 weeks ago the right disc came in. Today I installed the disc, put the springs/longer hub away from the flywheel. Finished rest up, uncaged the pressure plate. The 3 fingers that disengage are loose. No tension on them. Pushing on the clutch pedal does nothing. What have I done wrong? Needing some help please.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy