Re: Broken bolt extractor in engine block

Geo-TH,In · Jan 18, 2014

Tom Fleming,
Totally agree, easy outs are not easy to get out if you twist them off.

I will never again use an easy out, unless I can drill a hole all the way through the bold and have access to the other side, so when, not if, but when I twist it off, I can drive it out from the other side.
George

Rumplestiltskin · Jan 18, 2014

Your experience and advice are the same as mine, Tom. The only method I use anymore is a succession of larger and larger left-handed drill bits. I've had 100 percent success with that, and very little to no thread damage.

Mark W. in MI

Jim in Ma. · Jan 18, 2014

l Agreed - I would add that using Left hand twist drills help to (sometimes).

Phil Tibbetts · Jan 18, 2014

The spiral easy outs are worthless, but I have had some luck with the square ones from Proto. You still run the risk of breakage though if the bolt is badly seized. Sometimes a good rapping with a hammer on the bolt will help free it. I always start with a small hole all the way through the bolt and abundant amount of Kroil penetrating oil and let set for a day before attempting to remove it.

Tom Dowling · Jan 18, 2014

Have you thought about blowing out the extractor with a cutting torch? If its not a tiny bolt and you are careful if you put the heat right on the bolt and get it hot just right you can blow it out without destroying the metal around it. careful though, you need to be real steady and be prepared to take a slag shower.

Tom Dowling · Jan 18, 2014

I forgot to say wear eye protection and fire proof clothes

LMack · Jan 18, 2014

I have never successfully removed a broken bolt with an ease out of any kind. I have been successful using a welded on nut. In a pinch I have drilled out the broken bolt and rethreaded the hole.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 18, 2014

I am with you guys on the idea of avoiding easyouts at all cost. I have removed a lot of bolts that were broken off flush or slightly down into the hole by drilling a small hole through the bolt then welding a nut on, spray some penetrant or hyd oil on it, and walk away from it until it cools completely. As it cools it will pull the oil down into the threads, and by first drilling a hole in it the weld will penetrate better without

The 300 guy · Jan 18, 2014

I have had a lot of success if first you drill a SMALL hole in the CENTER of the bolt. Then use some heat on the bolt and area. Next spray Deep Creep into the hole and let it cool. If you read Deep Creek's instructions, they recommend the heat, plus it is much cheaper than Kroll's and I think works way better. After it cools, drill with the correct size drill for the easy out ALL the way through the bolt. This I have found seems to let the bolt shrink to a smaller diameter. Then use the easy out with a gentle rocking action. Like a very slow impact wrench. Now it it does not come out (which it has for me most of the time) you now can finish drilling out the bolt to the correct tap size and tap new threads.

Red Mercury · Jan 18, 2014

I agree. I have never had much luck with easy outs and have broken
them before as well. Basically, if the broken bolt is badly seized
there is no way that an easy out is going to break the remaining
part of the bolt loose. All of the other methods of removing a
broken bolt that were mentioned will work with good success. I
usually end up drilling the broken bolt out using a slightly smaller
bit and then try to get the remaining fragments of the bolt threads
out of the hole. Run a tap through the hole to clean up the original
threads and then it's good to go. The trick is to be careful and
precise with the drill.

I read once that a broken easy out can be removed by shattering it
into small pieces with a sharp centre punch. I have never tried it--
has anyone else ever heard of this?

wilsonsk · Jan 18, 2014

I do a little gunsmithing, and yup, you can break them with a punch in a blind hole, typically it's when tapping scope mount holes. It is pretty easy.

I'll also say I have given up all hope of easy-outs working as well. My preferred method is drill it with a pretty small bit, then start moving up in size till you get to the tap drill size, then run a tap in it, it has always found the threads if the old bolt didn't come out with the drill. The plan B is to go up to the next size with a fresh hole. I have used left handed bits when I have them, I have done more with right handed bits than left, still works well. The downside is when it happens in a situation where you can't get to it to drill it ice and straight. I pulled a 390 out of a 76 F-250 to extract an exhaust manifold stud. Better then completely screwing it up.

wilsonsk · Jan 18, 2014

I do a little gunsmithing, and yup, you can break them with a punch in a blind hole, typically it's when tapping scope mount holes. It is pretty easy.

I'll also say I have given up all hope of easy-outs working as well. My preferred method is drill it with a pretty small bit, then start moving up in size till you get to the tap drill size, then run a tap in it, it has always found the threads if the old bolt didn't come out with the drill. The plan B is to go up to the next size with a fresh hole. I have used left handed bits when I have them, I have done more with right handed bits than left, still works well. The downside is when it happens in a situation where you can't get to it to drill it ice and straight. I pulled a 390 out of a 76 F-250 to extract an exhaust manifold stud. Better then completely screwing it up.

F-Dean · Jan 19, 2014

Any suggestions for removing a broken off Easy-Out?

teddy52food · Jan 19, 2014

Don't use one in the first place. They only work if it comes out easy. A broken, twisted off bolt doesn't come out easy.

Jim Becker · Jan 19, 2014

(quoted from post at 10:01:06 01/19/14) Any suggestions for removing a broken off Easy-Out?

everal good suggestions have already been given in this thread and the original thread that started this one. You might want to go back and reread both threads. The only viable method I can think of that hasn't already been suggested is to take the engine block to a machine shop and have them burn it out with an EDM.

Nebraska Cowman · Jan 19, 2014

I managed to get one out one time with a masonary bit and a torch. A fellow had brought me a manifold he had been working on. He said he "could not get" a couple of broken bolts out. He did not tell me there was a broken easyout in one of the holes. Like, he thought I wouldn't notice? I never said a thing. maybe he will read this post. LOL
But fair is fair. Years ago I was at a comunity wood bee for an elderly neighbor. I buried a wedge in a block of wood and it still would not split. Another man was splitting near by with one of those splitting mauls we call a "go devil" I turned the block over and told him to give it a whack. he was a big man and came down on it hard. the piece split and the wedge dropped out. He said, "Hey, you didn't tell me there was a wedge in there" I said "No, I was afraid you would not hit it hard enough if you knew the wedge was in there"

Patrick HMD · Jan 26, 2014

Got er done. The 1/4" diamond hole saw did the trick. I didn't even know such things existed. The hole got a little wallerd out but I was able to recut the original tread size to my satisfaction. I'm happy and content again. The black cloud hovering over my head is gone. Man, what a relief! Sure makes life interesting when these mini challenges always seem to pop up. lol

Thanks guys, and best regards
Patrick
'49M

mkirsch · Jan 27, 2014

Aren't those diamond hole saws great?

I had a dark cloud like that looming over me for the better part of a decade. Then I learned about them from someone else.

Re: Broken bolt extractor in engine block

Geo-TH,In

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Rumplestiltskin

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Jim in Ma.

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Phil Tibbetts

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Tom Dowling

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Tom Dowling

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LMack

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Anonymous-0

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The 300 guy

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Red Mercury

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wilsonsk

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wilsonsk

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F-Dean

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teddy52food

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Jim Becker

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Nebraska Cowman

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Patrick HMD

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mkirsch

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