Is this a crazy idea

notjustair · Dec 6, 2013

When I bought my M it was low on fluid in the rear. Got it changed once the weather warmed. Found out why it was low.

Looking at the left rear wheel it is leaking where the trumpet housing meets the rear diff at about the 7:00 position. There's no crack, but it looks like someone replaced a seal without taking it apart and cut the seal. There's just a gap in that seal.

It has been dripping about a softball size spot each day. I was thinking that when it leaked down enough I would clean it up, put black RTV in a syringe with a needle and fill in that gap. Is that crazy? Do you think I can get it clean enough for the silicone to be able to adhere?

Janicholson · Dec 6, 2013

It might have residual oil on the inside making it tough to get clean. I would use a hot glue gun to "inject" plastic into the gap, after heating it and cleaning it with carb spray. Then tighten the bolts. Cheap and potentially permanent. Jim

Aces · Dec 6, 2013

Just what is a trumpet housing?

Bill Lisbon · Dec 6, 2013

Bite the bullet! do it right, replace the seal, and your leak will stop.

CenTex Farmall · Dec 7, 2013

Permatex "Ultra Black" will stick to somewhat oily surfaces better than other silicones but is more expensive. Blast the area with brake cleaner first.

leon · Dec 7, 2013

What have you got to loose - give it a try with some of the good ideas suggested, then report back.

Nebraska Cowman · Dec 7, 2013

No, I don't think it's crazy. It's a lot of work to change one. If the gap is big enough I'd cut a little piece of gasket, coat it good with sealer and cram it in the hole.

charlieu · Dec 7, 2013

I just finished up replaceing the gasket on a Farmall H this week. In the first picture you can see the gasket is broke out in the 8 o-clock
position. I just used Ultra gray gasket sealer to repair, I did not use a gasket. I removed the PTO and loosen the bolt that holds the bull gear to the axle, working through the hole. Time will tell how good the Ultra gray sealer works.

Anonymous-0 · Dec 7, 2013

I put a bead of jb weld around each joint on my H and md restorations after throughly cleaning the surface. That worked for me, altho neither tractor had any actual drips coming from those areas.

SDE · Dec 7, 2013

I put 15 gals. of hytran in my 400. I lost quite a bit of it before I discovered a leak in the same place as yours. I removed the axle and found that the bearing was bad. I am glad that I did it the right way. But if you are sure that it is only the seal that is the problem, then try what you like best. If it still leaks, you really haven't lost anything.
SDE

rustred · Dec 7, 2013

if your not pulling it right apart , then loosen all bolts and slide the axle housing out some. then spray the area with brake kleens and that will dry the oily surface so the sealant will stick.do your thing and then bolt it back together.

JMS/.MN · Dec 7, 2013

It"s the cast housing that the axle goes through....it"s bolted to the differential. Sort of trumpet" shaped. More so on some tractors, like Ford.

heavyhaulertoo · Dec 7, 2013

You are going to trim the sealer off the outside of the housing?

Janicholson · Dec 7, 2013

Yes. Jim

big a · Dec 8, 2013

I did both sides on my 39 M last fall, as part of resealing everything from clutch housing back. I eliminated the gaskets, and just used Loctite 515 anaerobic sealer. No leaks so far, after a long summer on swather and baler.

Is this a crazy idea

notjustair

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Janicholson

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Aces

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Bill Lisbon

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CenTex Farmall

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leon

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Nebraska Cowman

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charlieu

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Anonymous-0

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SDE

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rustred

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JMS/.MN

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heavyhaulertoo

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Janicholson

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big a

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