Ignition Switch

Hello, I now have a red tractor. Been running a grey tractor and getting pretty used to it. Now I need to learn about Farmall H. I pulled it home and put a battery in it. Nothing, starter wouldn't turn. Got the starter back today from rebuild shop and going to put it on in the morning. Now I'm going to buy a manual for it Monday but I have a simple question for tomorrow......where is the on position on the switch? The old tractor is faded and rusty and I'm not familiar with IH. Can someone help me out? THANKS
 
There are two switches on it. The rotary switch is for the lights, the push pull is for the ignition.

Pull it out to run.

The starter does not go through this switch, so may have another issue.
 
Provided it is the original switch, in is off and out is on. If it has a magneto the switch (in) grounds the mag and has only one wire, if it has a distributer it has two wires. It is possible that the starter was ok. The connections to the cables or the cables themselves may be corroded, check that also.
 
With the battery in. There is a push pull switch below the light switch like already said out on in off. With the switch out there is another push button switch up and to the left. It looks like the brass but of a shotgun shell. Push it with the choke out a bit in cooler weather. The choke is at the bottom below the on switch, the rod with a ring on the end. Then of course set the choke to run smooth.
 
(quoted from post at 13:42:13 10/27/13) With the battery in. There is a push pull switch below the light switch like already said out on in off. With the switch out there is another push button switch up and to the left. It looks like the brass but of a shotgun shell. Push it with the choke out a bit in cooler weather. The choke is at the bottom below the on switch, the rod with a ring on the end. Then of course set the choke to run smooth.
I would like to thank you all for your help. Yes, The starter brushes were burned and really looked bad. It turns over now and I got it to start on ether. I let it run on ether for maybe a minute and it didn't pop, puff, growl, whine, leak or smoke. I guess I'll spend a little money on it. I suppose next I should go thru the fuel system? I can't find a dip-stick but I see a couple pet-cocks on the pan. Is that how you check the oil? How about hyd. fluid? On my 8N the trans. rear end and hyd. is all the same oil. Is Farmall different? I don't mean to be a pain the neck but it may be a few days till the manual gets here and I want get started now. Thanks
 
The fuel supply has a shutoff under the tank and needs to be opened when the tractor is to be operated, and shut when the tractor is stopped (right away, not after a while)
There is also a screen in the fuel line at the carb inlet fitting.
The highest petcock in the pan is the full mark. When oil drips out of it it is full. 15-40 diesel oil is great, so is 10-30 car oil. The lower petcock is when it is a quart low, but usually not used (it was used every day when distillate "tractor fuel" was used as the oil needed to be drained down to the lower level then a quart added to replenish diluted oil from the cheap fuel.)
The oil is put into the engine just in front of the distributor where you will find a winged lid about 3inches across. (use a small adjustable wrench to loosen and don't over tighten.
The hydraulic oil is checked on the right side about 8 inches or so rearward of the engine. The hydraulic oil filler is a knob that looks like a chef's hat. Under the hat (should be) a dip stick with a washer as the handle. Many are missing. Fill it between 9 and 8 inches from the top of the pipe threads. The use of Hytran, or hydraulic oil used in other tractors is OK. Originally the tractor called for 30 wt non detergent motor oil in summer, and 20 in the winter. Those are also fine to use. If using machines with other tractors interchangeably, go with what they use. From completely empty to full is 6 quarts. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 02:41:03 10/28/13) The fuel supply has a shutoff under the tank and needs to be opened when the tractor is to be operated, and shut when the tractor is stopped (right away, not after a while)
There is also a screen in the fuel line at the carb inlet fitting.
The highest petcock in the pan is the full mark. When oil drips out of it it is full. 15-40 diesel oil is great, so is 10-30 car oil. The lower petcock is when it is a quart low, but usually not used (it was used every day when distillate "tractor fuel" was used as the oil needed to be drained down to the lower level then a quart added to replenish diluted oil from the cheap fuel.)
The oil is put into the engine just in front of the distributor where you will find a winged lid about 3inches across. (use a small adjustable wrench to loosen and don't over tighten.
The hydraulic oil is checked on the right side about 8 inches or so rearward of the engine. The hydraulic oil filler is a knob that looks like a chef's hat. Under the hat (should be) a dip stick with a washer as the handle. Many are missing. Fill it between 9 and 8 inches from the top of the pipe threads. The use of Hytran, or hydraulic oil used in other tractors is OK. Originally the tractor called for 30 wt non detergent motor oil in summer, and 20 in the winter. Those are also fine to use. If using machines with other tractors interchangeably, go with what they use. From completely empty to full is 6 quarts. Jim
Thank you Jim, That's a lot of help. The shut-off valve seems to need work and I think I'll take the carb apart as soon as I can get some gaskets. The manifold is broke and I don't know how long it's been run that way. I have been told that's a good way to warp exhaust valves so I'm going to check the compression first. But it didn't pop or puff when I ran it. I have a lot to do but I will follow up when I learn more. Thanks for the help!
 
Many engines run 1/2 of their lives with a broken exhaust manifold. Valve warpage from air hitting the valve is unlikely and would take extreme circumstances and over heating of the valve to do it. It is truly a myth. Replace the manifold with a good used if possible. New imported castings have been found difficult to work with as far as fit and hole location. A compression check is always good, but get it running with real gasoline first. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 02:29:33 10/29/13) Many engines run 1/2 of their lives with a broken exhaust manifold. Valve warpage from air hitting the valve is unlikely and would take extreme circumstances and over heating of the valve to do it. It is truly a myth. Replace the manifold with a good used if possible. New imported castings have been found difficult to work with as far as fit and hole location. A compression check is always good, but get it running with real gasoline first. Jim
Ok, I agree on the gasoline. Now is there any way to patch the manifold even for a little while? I would like to run it a while before spending good money on it. I'm told stainless steel rod works on cast-iron but I have never tried it myself. If I can quiet it down, I will be better able to assess the condition of the motor. Thanks again!!
 

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