60's/70's Farmall IHC Help

Hello All
Would like to get some feedback on Farmall International Harvester tractors. I'm interested in 75-120HP models. Will be working the tractor in a hay operation so no heavy tillage. Would like help with which models to stay away from. Which models have readily available parts for routine maintenance as well as major overhauls. Just trying to make a solid decision with as much information as I can obtain. Thanks to all!
 
The old farmalls have very good pats availability.The only one I can think of to be wary of is a 706 with D282.Not a bad tractor,but tend to be harder to start.IH used a lot of common parts in the rear end/transmission,and other places.Just about any IH of the 06/56 sereis would do you a good job.They are all good tractors.I run em!706(310 german diesel);826Hydro;1256.Have also owned:806;1026;856,others.
 
Thanks for the feedback Its funny you mention the 706 I found a good deal on one but wasnt sure. Is cold weather the reason behind the hard starting issue as I'm in sunny Florida and we rarely see prolonged cold spells.
 
The 706's with the D282 are known to start hard because they are a glow plug diesel. Folks tend to neglect them causing starting issues. As long as the system (ie; glow plugs, wiring, switch) are in good shape they start just fine. Even in your warm Florida climate you'll still need to hold the glow plug switch for about 20-30 seconds to start the tractor. They are a little light on power though compared to the later 706's which had the kraut D310. While the D310 is an excellent engine, it is very costly to overhaul while the D282 is much cheaper. Now if the 706 your looking at is gas, then this whole conversation is pointless... 8)

Casey in SD
 
Great feedback Thanks I guess it falls back on keeping up good maintenance on your machine. What year did they switch from the 282 to the 310?
 
Since you're doing mostly hay,think seriously about a Hydro.Nothing better for haying than a hydro.Every body says"they're expencive to repair"(try OHing a JD powershift).Ive owned 3 of them(Hydro 100;1026;826).They are capable of any farm job includeing tillage.They are not as fuel efficient as a 'gear' tractor,but not bad.You just have to know how to run the In fact it(826) doesnt use any more fuel than my turbo 706(310).The 1026 used about the same as the 1256,the Hydro 100 was the economy king
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Don't forget the 1456--the latest-introduced of the 56 series, and the most powerful! Plus a little beefier on the front end than even the mighty 1256. Just sayin'.
 
Thanks again to all for the great feedback I'm not familiar with the "Hydro" tractors but I will definitely take a look at them. Is there a special reason they are so good for haying?
 
Hydrostatic transmission. Infinitely variable speed.

The problem is if they go bad they go really bad and it's $5000+ to fix one.

Gas hydros are gutless fuel-sucking pigs. Diesel hydros are so in-demand that you're going to pay way too much for one.

The big 06 and 56 series (1206, 1256, 1456) are becoming collectibles, so you will pay a price premium for one.

706's are the most common of all of them. 756s are kinda rare.

With any of these "large frame" tractors, repairs will be extensive and expensive. If you get a good one it will last you a good long time, but if you get one that needs a TA and/or engine work, it's going to cost you to fix, but when you get it back, it will last you a good long time.
 
Hydrostatic drive.As was said above."Infinitely Variable Speed" at the push/pull of a lever.Not to be confused with the (new) JohnDeere IVT(infinitely variable transmission)According to my local JD dealer,that trans costs $25,000+ to repair....
 
i'll second that. bought a 706 w/ 282 couple years ago for cheap and "needs work." got it running, all new glow plugs and switch. haven't done anything to engine, and it probably needs some attention. but it starts fine. needs 10 sec of glow plugs in the summer, maybe a minute in the winter. but it'll start.
 
All the 06,56 series would be fine. the 66 series would be cheaper to go through the engine if needed. As the wet sleeves are easier to do. Then any of them would be fine also.
 

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