Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I have a h farmal with Saginaw 3 point and a massey ferguson 2-14 3 point hitch plow. My question is how do I adjust the depth on the plow I want to plow 6 inches deep?
Thank You All
Jerry
Thank You All
Jerry
- Thread starter Anonymous-0
- Start date
Bill Lisbon
Member
I don't know what kind of soil you have, unless it's like peat moss you will never get it to work 100%.You have no draft control like the Massey tractor has. You may try putting a gage wheel on the plow, or putting stops on the lift cylinder.
JimB2
Well-known Member
- Location
- Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Hi Jerry, years ago when we plowed with a 300U and 3pt adapter, we installed a depth wheel on the plow as suggested by Bill. Then when we traded 300U for B-414 that had a 3pt with depth control, we removed the depth wheel.
JimB
JimB
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
Drop the mounted plow for a trailer. The corners are where you will enjoy the difference. If you ever get stuck you will soon wish it was a trailer plow. Also won't have to worry about draft control and such.
I never was able to get the 3 point plow to work right on my H. Ended up selling the plow. I'm still looking for a deal on a little genius.
Not having draft control was the issue for me, I never could get a steady cut going. It dug deep a couple times and would flip the plow on end.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
The length of the top link controlls the plow angle of attack. (assumes good shares)
Shortning the link makes it run deeper, lengthening makes it run mor shallow, or come out of the ground alltogether. A cylinder stop., or a bent wire marker adjusted to be visible when the lift arms are just right might help. Jim
Shortning the link makes it run deeper, lengthening makes it run mor shallow, or come out of the ground alltogether. A cylinder stop., or a bent wire marker adjusted to be visible when the lift arms are just right might help. Jim
60 acre hillside
Member
An old tractor with a 3 point kit does not equal a tractor made for a 3 point. Many implements will work fine with a 3 point kit but s moldboard plow is unfortunately not one of them.
Those who suggested a pull type plow are exactly right. An H is one of the best and most popular tractors IHC made.
Those who suggested a pull type plow are exactly right. An H is one of the best and most popular tractors IHC made.
I plow with a 1950 "H", a Cross Manufacturing 3-point, and a JD 812 2-14 with depth wheel. It would not work with0ut adjusting the top link to plow level. It wouldn"t wortk without the depth wheel, which I can set to any depth. And it absolutely will not work without a turn-buckle anti-sway gizmo I made to hold the first plow 14" from the inside of the rear wheel, so the first cut is 14". But it works great. You"re up high above the plow, you can hear the ssshhhhh as it cuts.
Unless you have perfectly flat ground, you will be fighting a 3 point plow on a tractor without draft control, even simple draft as an older Ford. Gage wheel will help, but you will still need the top link adjusted so it isn't trying to pull down too deep, or trying to slide up out of the ground. If your field is uneven, buy a pull type.
Some people can make it work. Some can't.
It depends a lot on your soil conditions. Soil that is consistent is the most important factor. The easier the soil plows, the easier it is to set up the plow.
If you've got the tractor with the 3pt, and a plow, you've got nothing to lose by trying.
It depends a lot on your soil conditions. Soil that is consistent is the most important factor. The easier the soil plows, the easier it is to set up the plow.
If you've got the tractor with the 3pt, and a plow, you've got nothing to lose by trying.
Hendrik
Member
Without depth or draft control a 3-point hitch plow can work very nicely; done it for years, even in strongly varying soil conditions. A few conditions must be fulfilled, however:
1) Shares should be in good condition and have "suck".
2) The 3-point should have the right geometry. The toplink must NOT be parallel to the lower links. When the lower links are horizontal, the top link must slope downwards from the plow to the tractor attachment point.
3) The plow must have an adjustible gauge wheel.
4) The hydraulics must have a provision to float.
HTH, Hendrik
1) Shares should be in good condition and have "suck".
2) The 3-point should have the right geometry. The toplink must NOT be parallel to the lower links. When the lower links are horizontal, the top link must slope downwards from the plow to the tractor attachment point.
3) The plow must have an adjustible gauge wheel.
4) The hydraulics must have a provision to float.
HTH, Hendrik
Hendrik
Member
Regarding the geometry of the three point hitch (item 2) I forgot to mention one important aspect. The lower lift arms, if viewed from above, should NOT be parallel. The distance between the attachment points of the lower lift arms to the plow should be larger than the distance between the attachment points to the tractor frame.
For ground engaging implements, especially plows, this is critical for proper tracking.
I have seen some aftermarket 3-point hitches where the lift arms are parallel. These are fine for lifting but not for pulling ground engaging implements.
For ground engaging implements, especially plows, this is critical for proper tracking.
I have seen some aftermarket 3-point hitches where the lift arms are parallel. These are fine for lifting but not for pulling ground engaging implements.
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