Super C

Terry from Mo · Oct 11, 2013

Haven t been to this website in awhile. I have a Golden Jubilee and normally post in the Ford forum but today i was given a 52 model Super C.All i had to do was haul it home.The guy that had it after finding out the engine was stuck lost interest in it so thats how i ended up with it.Going to work on getting the engine freed up first then find some rims and tires for the front so i can at least pull it around. If i get it to run and move then i will be driving you guys crazy with questions.Would like to find a set of fenders for it later on.It came with a Woods belly mower. I believe it is a 306.Looking forward to visiting with you guys on here and learning all about the Super C.

DeltaRed · Oct 11, 2013

Congrats on the new toy.Let the dialoges begin!

Terry from Mo · Oct 11, 2013

Been turning wrenches for several years but i m a rookie when it comes to these red tractors. Not familiar at all with Farmalls so probably gonna be lots of head scratching and questions.

DeltaRed · Oct 11, 2013

SCs are great little tractors.Simple,too.Lots of parts are available.New,NOS,aftermarket,used......

Terry from Mo · Oct 11, 2013

Thats good to hear. I m already confused why it has an alternator on it but a 6 volt battery.

DeltaRed · Oct 11, 2013

There are a few 6volt alternators out there.Test it to find exactly what you have:A 12v alt with a 6v battery;a 6v alt with a 6vbatt; a nonworking alt,or something else....

Owen Aaland · Oct 11, 2013

Al it takes to convert an alternator to six volts is a different regulator. With a 10SI it only takes a different rectifier bridge and a bit of wire to convert them to positive ground.

Terry from Mo · Oct 11, 2013

Thanks Owen for that info.I may give you a shout later on if i get the engine unstuck. Thats my main objective right now.Have a good weekend!!

Terry from Mo · Oct 11, 2013

I will do that Delta but thats a ways off.Not sure how many years this thing has been setting or if i will be successful at getting her unstuck.I work with a guy that restores John Deere s and he has bought several that were stuck and he told me to fill the cylinders up with a mixture of kerosene and automatic tranny fluid.He has a perfect track record so far and has gotten all of his freed up and running.

DeltaRed · Oct 11, 2013

That mix(and others)will work if its just 'dry stuck).If its gotten water in it,about the only way is to tear it apart.I have a stuck MD that shows no sign of water,but is stuck hard,been soadink for a couple mounths....Try the soak first.Good luck!

gene bender · Oct 12, 2013

Take the plugs and lay them in order on top of the hood. Look at them looking for rust. Now take a good lite and shine in the holes if the walls are rusty there aint no way you will get it free. Your best bet them is pull the motor so you can tear it down. Ive bought several engines of that type and only one was i able to get it free. Rest had rusty walls and needed to be torn down. Then usuall need to press out the whole sleeve and piston in one unit the go from there. You will want to have the crank checked also so you will need to pullit and take to a machine shop then with new sleeves and pistonsrings and bearings you will have a new engine. Also get the valves done.

CharlieNJ · Oct 12, 2013

Woods does not make the 306 any more, but parts are still available. Go to the Woods web-site and e-mail to them a request for the 306 manual. They will send you a free PDF copy. The picture shows a 306, with the unique idler pulley arrangement.

El Toro · Oct 12, 2013

If soaking with atf doesn't free the pistons, pull the head and oil pan. Remove one of the rod caps and use a big hammer and piece of oak about one inch square and try driving out the connecting rod and piston. That engine has wet sleeves so they may come out as well. You can use an acetylene torch to heat the sleeve to free the piston. If they're very rusty I would install a new sleeve kit w/ new pistons. You can reuse the old rods. They may need new bushings.
Hal

NoNewParts · Oct 12, 2013

If you have been working on your Ford, the Farmall will
be no problem. similar and simple.
In fact, working on all my brands, I'd have to give the nod to the little Farmalls.
10 second hood removal, drop the pan and can refresh the engine if need be...nice
and the gas tank behind the engine where it belongs
instead of right over the engine.
Like said, for freeing up an assembled engine,
you have to get the water out of the cylinders first for your mix to work.
I use a necked down hose on a shopvac, then blow it out good, then soak.

NF Super C's are by far my favorite little tractor.
very handy machines

edit for my Ford brothers.....the 700-900 NF Fords would probably be my favorite, but their price in my area is unreasonable. Farmalls are VERY cheap here if you look around.

El Toro · Oct 12, 2013

I bought this Farmall A for $100.00 in 1975 and the engine was stuck. The head and pan was off when I bought it. The owner couldn't free the pistons. I used a piece of oak and a hammer and drove out the sleeves and pistons since the ATF didn't work. I only kept the old connecting rods and installed a new sleeve kit. I stripped the block and steam cleaned it. Here's a picture of it. It also came with the 16-inch moldboard plow. Hal

CNKS · Oct 12, 2013

The manual can be downloaded from Woods website.

Terry from Mo · Oct 12, 2013

I sincerely appreciate all of the comments and suggestions.

Terry from Mo · Oct 12, 2013

Gene i took a flashlight and took a look at the cylinder walls and to my surprise they all looked pretty clean and shiney.Gonna let them soak awhile and maybe i will get lucky and she will break loose.I m in the market for a decent front rim and tire if anybody has one laying around so i can pull the tractor down a little closer to my shop. The front tires are junk and both rims have holes rotted through them.

mattwillson · Oct 12, 2013

I bought a 130, which had a 6V 10SI alternator....yeah i know it s not original but it does work...I put a 8V battery in to compensate for the crappy small cables PO used. The old girl hasn t missed a beat all year, cultivating 35 acres of produce.

CharlieNJ · Oct 13, 2013

My mistake, the picture above is a L503 NOT 306, and CNKS is correct the 306 manual is available from the Woods site. The 503, however, is not, but Woods will e-mail it to you. Sorry for the mistake, Thanks CNKS for the correction!

Farmallhal · Oct 13, 2013

Terry, I don't know where you are located in Missouri but I'm near Rolla. I have a pair of original IH front rims and tires for a Super C from my 1953 Super C I restored a few years ago up in the tractor shed. As I recall they are very useable with no real issues - I used a nice set with new Firestones from a salvage tractor for my restoration. My email is open if you care to contact me, Hal.
P.S. If you need other items I have a lot of original IH parts from my tractor along with newly purchased items which might be of use as well including a very nice pair of fenders with U-bolts.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 19, 2013

I am glad to know there are other people in MO that only see red. My hobby is getting parts tractors and left over parts, then putting the pieces together to make a running tractor. I have never purchased a running tractor and only get C,SC,or 200. My oldest has a four digit serial beginning with a 1. I have 12 running and 3 waiting. This site has good advice.

Owen Aaland · Oct 20, 2013

The front rims on my Super C came from the auto salvage yard. Five bucks apiece for 15" temporary spare wheels and tires. Cut the center out of the rim and weld on a stop lug and they will work fine . The rims I got are 4.5 X 15 rather than the 4 X 15 that was the original but the 1/2" really doesn't make much difference.

Super C

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