A's axle seal

need some help and advice i have a farmall A .
the left rear axle seal is leaking on the brake band.in the sectional veiw it looks like there is a seal on the outside of the drum .should i replace that one also?
Also i'm having a hard time finding the correct seal for the inside one it looks very specific.
does any one have a parts #

Well to replace those seals, you have to take the final drive off. Not a complicated job, but one that requires either a trolly and hoist, or a cherry picker type engine crane.

Anyway, the one you are looking to replace is in the transmission case, where the final drive axle goes in. You can replace the seals on the final drive if you want, but that would require dismantling it to do it right.

Its not the axle seal its the differential shaft. Easy to replace remove the assy at the tranny and the seal is rite there coming out of the tranny. Secure the tractor on good blocks i use a cherry picker to remove the final assy after removing the center with the tire and rim. I remove the brake band and sand blast it to clean it good. Most of the time i reline the brake band if the old one is shot.

See the link, the number can be crossed to another brand if you want to. Sometimes these links disappear, if so look at the parts section of CaseIH.com
Differential

BTW, I was able to cross the seal number over in the NAPA online web site. Thats where I got my seals.

Thanks that was a big help i was to that site but didn't put the right info in to get to tha A series .
you sure have to be careful taking the wheel and housing off every thing wahted to shift to one side almost tipped the tractor over!

I put the whole rear of the tractor on 4x4 cribbing.

Not saying you shouldn't replace a leaking seal - BUT - before you do anything, be sure you're not overfilling the gear box. Those seals typically don't leak much unless there's too much oil.

They don't hold much - it's easy to think you're not filled enough.

(and be sure it's not full of water if left outside)

When you get the left final drive off you will have to deal with the break band to complete the removal. Do plan on replacing the band no matter the condition of the old and thoroughly clean the inside of the housing including the break wheel. Be very careful removing the old oil seal that will remain in the transmission housing. DO NOT DRIVE IT IN and do not ask me why I know this! I suggest that unless you have special tools you drill several 1/8" holes in the metal face band of the old seal. Use self tapping screws in the holes and a pry bar to slowly remove the seal. If a screw strips out use a larger screw or drill another hole. You might have to tap it in slightly to break it loose to pull. Be careful not to get drill chips or metal fillings in the inside of the transmission case. With the wheel removed two strong men can manhandle the final drive into place. If you need to do it without help have an overhead crane, tree limb, or front end loader to support the weight of the drive. Carefully insert the final drive axel through the new seal so that you do not damage the wear surface. You will again have to deal with the break band so do not try to force the drive into place until the band has been properly aligned over the wheel. You can do it but it does require a bit of carefulness.

If the tractor has been stored in the rain, the reason the seal failed may have been too much liquid in the transmission. The gear stick assembly is not water proof and the tractor should be covered if left for long periods unsheltered. In the old days the units left out in the rain would be cranked and run and the heat would drive off the rainwater in the transmission. Now the transmission just fills with water and oil and the low quality seals provided do not resist positive pressure. They will always leak. Check the transmission for water by removing the bottom drain. If water comes out keep draining until oil flows. You will need to flush the transmission and provide new oil if water has been there for any length of time.