If it's not one thing it's another

I've posted a couple of times about my BN in the last week or two. First the governor was fouled up and I had to play with the bump spring to get it right.

Next issue was it running rough at higher RPMs. Got the vac tester out today and started to play. The really looked like timing so I static timed the engine and it go worse. Idle speed was fine but the upper RPMs not so much.

Started playing with the timing and low and behold if I advanced the timing by hand when it was running at a high RPM it smoothed right out. Back of the throttle and now it wouldn't idle. Hmm...advance must be stuck in the distributor.

Grab a Mag I have laying around, time it up and things are better. It doesn't idle quite so nice as it did with the distributor but the high RPM cleaned up quite a bit. Hit has a random miss every now and then but under any load it clean right up and sounds strong!

Figure I'll check the oil and put her away. What I find is to much oil, not only to much but milky oil. I replaced the head gasket a year or two ago because I found water in the oil. The gasket didn't look bad, now I guess I know why.

I'm guessing bad O-Ring on the sleeve(s)? What's got me bummed is I have an A on the shelf right now for the same exact problem.

I know the best way is the right way but would a stop leak work in something like this? I just can't pull the engine down right now and it's not a machine that gets a ton of hours.

I'm thinking fresh oil and one of the magic in a can products and keep a very close eye on the oil?

Thanks,

K

without a waterpump how are you going to get the sealant to stop the leak. If you premix the solution you stand a better chance of stoping the leak.

If you need the tractor use the stop leak. Barsleak is a good product. Subaru radiator conditioner is also very good good. Itis required in many subaru cars. Jim

I use Bars leak in all my tractors, and also ones with thermosyphon (no water pump). However, Gene is correct that you can muck up a radiator if you don't use the Bars leak correctly.

Here is the right way.

Get the tractor up to running temp where she is cycling the coolant. Pour in the Bars leak. Put the cap on and run her for at least 30-40 mins, work her if you can. Take a ride, but keep her running and up to temp.

That will thoroughly mix the bars leak and more than likely fix your problem. However, if you don't get her up to temp and don't run it for at least 30-40 mins at operating temperature, you will have issues.

Sometimes I hesitate to suggest Bars leak on the thermosyphon, because people tend to be lazy. If you do it right, it is fine. If you cut corners, Gene is spot on the money.

I was thinking I would use the BARs stuff.

Mixing it wouldn't be a big deal, it's not like an A/B/BN holds all that much.

I just don't want to see water in my oil and I can't have two torn down at the same time.

K

(quoted from post at 11:25:23 09/28/13) I use Bars leak in all my tractors, and also ones with thermosyphon (no water pump). However, Gene is correct that you can muck up a radiator if you don't use the Bars leak correctly.

Here is the right way.

Get the tractor up to running temp where she is cycling the coolant. Pour in the Bars leak. Put the cap on and run her for at least 30-40 mins, work her if you can. Take a ride, but keep her running and up to temp.

That will thoroughly mix the bars leak and more than likely fix your problem. However, if you don't get her up to temp and don't run it for at least 30-40 mins at operating temperature, you will have issues.

Sometimes I hesitate to suggest Bars leak on the thermosyphon, because people tend to be lazy. If you do it right, it is fine. If you cut corners, Gene is spot on the money.

Click to expand...

That all sounds pretty reasonable to me. I am for doing things right...don't get me wrong but this time I need a band aid.

I'll do what you said, I may even drain a mix and still run it up to temp for 30 minutes. It can't hurt.

K

Pull the oil pan and find the cylinder that's leaking. Once you find the leak pull the head and that piston and sleeve. Install a new seal after cleaning that block area where the old seal was installed. You don't need to pull the engine.
Hal

(quoted from post at 12:02:02 09/28/13) Pull the oil pan and find the cylinder that's leaking. Once you find the leak pull the head and that piston and sleeve. Install a new seal after cleaning that block area where the old seal was installed. You don't need to pull the engine.
Hal

Click to expand...

No doubt the best way but I don't have the tools to remove a sleeve in frame.

I also have to many irons in the fire right now and not enough garage space. If the Bar's stop leak doesn't work then I'll put the old girl away and work on it net year.

K

Kopek, Bars leak is actually one of the best products on the market. The US navy used it in the 40's and 50's, so go figure. Bars leak was (and possibly still is) used by some car manufacturers as OEM on new cars.

While it is always better to replace a failing part, sometimes that is not practical at the time.

Try the Bars leak. Follow the instructions I suggested. I think you will be pleased. BTW, I am in no way connected with Bars leak, nor do I own stock in the company. I have used it for years with very good success.