OK, I got the 706 Back!

I bought a 706g with the 263 at an auction earlier this year. Well, it was a real mistake. I now have a lot of money tied up in this tractor with a new engine block, clutch and pistons, valves etc...

I have about twice what this tractor is worth tied up in it. I was hating life until...

I used it.

I know it sounds silly, but I am in love with this tractor. The mechanic fixed the shifting problems and it now starts with just a little choke and a bump of the starter button.

I spent all last weekend bush hogging with my 3 point 6' bush hog and it was like it wasn't even back there. I feel good knowing that I now have a tractor I can rely on.

Live PTO, live hydraulics, good brakes, 12v charging system, much more smoooooooth horsepower... Even though it is only 15 years newer, this tractor makes my M look like a relic.

I am glad I spent the money to get this old girl running right and I will enjoy the next 30 years with her.

I know what your saying. I"ve gone from a Super C...that I still have, with a 5 ft Fast Hitch Brush Hog, to a 706 gasser with the 291 engine and a 7 ft Rhino Brush Hog...like going from a horse and buggy to the Space Shuttle!!! Cmore

Matt, I drug in an early, early 706 D back in the spring, was more or less abandoned, and neglected. Got it going, have been most impressed with its size to hp, useability, 75 to 85 hp would make a very nice loader chore tractor, IMO!
Later
John A.

Have you really spent twice what it's worth? what exactly does that mean. if the cost of what you spent plus the cost of regular maintenance is less than what the payments and maintenance would be on a new probably 20k tractor then you are way ahead. I've thought about this a lot. because I have old tractors too and I see no reason why I couldn't rebuild these multiple times and still not be ahead. Who would benefit if I bought a new tractor? there all foreign made now so I'm not contributing to the countries economy, in fact by consuming even Chinese made parts I'm at least supporting the local places I buy the parts from and shops I get work done at, and even the web sites that are providing the forums with the knowledge I need to keep them going.

Good for you!You didn't play the "its not worth
that much "Game.Yes ,you have a lot of money in
it."Big deal",you now have a tractor that will go
out and work for you.Trouble free.And if you take
care of it it will last a lifetime.So in reality
it has become a cheap tractor considering the cost
of a new plastic POS that will be junk while your
706 is still running.KInda like when I overhauled
my SuperM 30 years ago.Could have bought 3 SMs for
what that OH cost...But,I've worked the snot out
of it,gotten way more use/enjoymentout of it than
the 'cost'.I recently put 4 new tires on
it(again, a SM isnt worth that much).I figure I
will keep it and use it for 30 more years.You made a wise choise....

My 706 is my right hand, I wouldn't sell it. It does love gas tho, went back to my 350 utility on the square baler.

Now if you want to keep it running good some of the things ya need to know about a 706 gasser, (1) run 93 octane gas ,(2) keep the in. timing set correctly for the engine size as the C263 sets different then a C291 and you set the timing at full throttle or rated RPM I have found that over the years and i do mean years of working on 706's that the vary best spark plugs to run are either the Auto Lites or A/C C86 's We run two 706 gassers at this time one is a 64 model and one is a 67 , both work each and everyday year round . They get more use then the diesels because they will start when it gets really cold . We work the bag off of them and they give us few problems as long as we use the correct gas and the correct engine oil and oh yes OIL that to is extremely important you MUST use LOW ASH our you will plum eat exhaust valves . Try being CHEAP and not run hightest gas and you eat pistons . This year we ran the one 706 twice what we normally do and our fuel cost sofar this year is around 80 bucks more then normal over what it would be if we tryed to be CHEAP and run reg. , BUT that 80 bucks extra we spent still does not cover the cost of just one piston let lone the rest of the pieces and parts to repair the damage done by reg gas.

one of the best driving tractors IH ever made, don't ever shut it off without setting the parking brake, rode run down a hill when 11 years old, my cousin was able to run fast enough to catch me, saved my life that day!

everything the vet said plus this, don't "baby it". the 706 is an old plow tractor, she's designed to run 2100 rpm under a heavy load, if you just putter around with it she's gonna load up and run rough

I guess I should have said "twice what I could get out of it if I sold it." I am into it for a good chunk, but for what a comparable modern tractor costs, it really is a steal.

I have already made sure it has low ash oil and I got new Autolite spark plugs. The ignition timing is set to factory specs.

The highest octane gas I can get delivered is what they call 90+. It is 100% gas though. I am paying through the nose for it, but I don't want to grenade this engine.

As far as the gas, does it matter what I am doing with the tractor? I mean, will I be ok with 90 octane if I am not plowing with 4-16's?

Finally, what is the right loader for this tractor? There was an IH 2350 for sale at an auction a while back, but it looked awfully big.

Thanks,

Matt

Tractor Vet..
I"m following your orders on Case IH LOW ASH oil and the highest octane gas I can find...usually only 91, however. And, my 706...291 gasser...runs like a scalded dog...pulls a 14 ft heavy Brush Hog disc fine in High 1st or Low 4th..I love it, and plan on taking good care of it..I should "Last Me Out"....Cmore

Matt,

If you want "period correct" for the tractor, the IH 2000 loader would be the right one.

A 2350 will work fine, but you will need to drill 8 holes in the tractor's frame for the rear mounting brackets.

Only problem with a 2350 is that it puts extra stress on the frame rails. You gotta be careful with the bashing and digging.

The 2000 looks a little small on a 706, and the 2350 looks about right.

no holes necessary. get a couple spacers to go between the frame and the rear loader bracket. drill the holes to fit the frame. then weld the loader bracket to the spacers in the right spot. works great on our 806.

Matt, According to the website "pure-gas.com" there are four outlets for 93 octane non-ethanol fuel in Indiana where I think you reside. They are located in Bremen, Evansville, Hamilton and Mishawaka. I don"t know if you are close to any of these towns but the available locations are noted on the above website.
I have a Farmall 656 with the same fuel issue and I can obtain 93 octane fuel at several Phillips 66 stations in town but I think it is blended with ethanol. There is another station in town which has 91 octane non-ethanol but don't know what is the best way to go at this point.
Hope this might be of some benefit to you in your fuel needs for the 706, Hal.

You wont talk me out of my 706 with the German diesl either. Wish I had about $10,000 to blow on it though. Needs shifter work, TA work and a new paintjob.

Gene

I think I would have found a good diesel to drop in it if the block was gone. But that's just me.

Friend's 656 ate exhaust valves, til he took it to the local tinkerer, who ground the valves and seats to a different angle.

Matt, thanks for the input on the loader.

Cmore, I think 91 should be ok.

T in NE, everything I have is gas, so I would have had to get a diesel tank.

Thanks everyone for the input!

Gene,I feel the same way about my 706 German,too.It has over 11,000 hrs,turbo.It got updated to 56 shifters,new TA several years ago....They will have to bury me on it!

The unleaded octane problem can be fixed as it has been with countless other engine. Hardened valve seats. Classic car guys have been doing it for years.

Rick