Here's a couple pics of the Farmall B

Blackriver · Sep 3, 2013

Well, she's in rough shape! Sat for 35 years. I got her pulled out of the weeds and vines today. I borrowed the front tire off a VW beetle and put a tube in it to hold air. I have the other hub and rim but need bearings on that side and a tire. A buddy helped me steer it and we pulled it down to my dad's place until I can get it to my house 8 miles away.

I opened the oil plug and about a gallon of water came out before the oil. Even a newbie like me knows that's not good news. It may be past praying for, but I'm gonna give it a shot. It's kinda hard to see in the pics but the rice field in the background is the same field this old B used to work in.

CharlieNJ · Sep 3, 2013

Check the transmission and final drives too, for water. I dropped some water out of the oil pan on an A last summer when I bought it. This summer that A cut four acres of grass every week. That motor and several other A's and B's I have were stuck when I got them, they are all running now. Took the fuel tanks and heads off of a few and set the cylinders on fire to free them up. So get after it, and good luck.

old · Sep 3, 2013

Seen more then one that had lots of water in the oil pan but still the engine was not locked up. So is the engine locked up or not??? If yes pull the plugs and see if it has water in the cylinders. Was the exhaust covered or open?? A couple years ago I used a block from a B and internal parts of an A engine to build a good engine. The A engine was broken in a number of places so use parts of 2 Bs and the A to build my BA and still have lots of parts for both the A and the B on hand

Blackriver · Sep 3, 2013

Yes, the engine is locked up. I have PBlaster and Marvel Mystery Oil soaking in the cylinders. The exhaust was covered but the manifold rusted into. I'm gonna try the setting the cylinders of fire trick next week. I haven't looked inside the tranny yet, but it is free and shifts ok.

Tom Fleming · Sep 3, 2013

The old girl looks pretty straight to me. Before I got all worked up, pull the head, and pull the pan. Take a good look before you write her off.

I have started with worse condition things than that, and made 'em run and work. Patience is the most important thing to you right now. Take your time, go a step at a time, and be PATIENT!

I think she is a fine restoration candidate............

old · Sep 3, 2013

Use a rag and get rid of the PB and MMO and fill with ATF it works faster and better. I have tried many many things over the years and found ATF works far better then any thing else ever has

gene bender · Sep 3, 2013

The frame for a b-221 cultivator with the lever for the rear tooling is whats mounted

RC Brooks · Sep 3, 2013

I've managed to get 3 of the pistons free on mine already. I actually took an old wood axe handle, cut it to fit and knocked the pistons up from the bottom (after removing the connecting rod caps). The wrist pins were froze, but some PB and some prying freed them up after I had knocked the pistons up enough to allow the connecting rods to move). Mine's only in marginally better condition. I had water in my block as well, though not for as long. It's actually fun to work on this, compared to modern machinery.

Blackriver · Sep 3, 2013

Thanks for all the comments. I"m having a little trouble finding what year it is, the serial # is FAB2428, there"s another small mark or number after that I can"t make out. It looks like a small "o" or something. My buddy thought it was a "9" but I don"t think so. Tractordata shows that # to be a "39 model,but I thought they had the single front wheel? Thanks for all the advice, I need it.

Farmall Marty · Sep 4, 2013

Tell me about setting the cylinders on fire. Never heard of that before.

RC Brooks · Sep 6, 2013

(reply to post at 22:14:00 09/03/13)

So, how's your project coming? I just freed the motor up today. Took about 2 weeks. I did end up removing 3 pistons as two of the wrist pins were nearly froze. Of course, I'm planning on a complete rebuild, so I'm not too worried, but it was nice to know the crank bearings weren't seized. Number 2 and 3 pistons had the seized wrist pins. Of course the pistons were rusted in the liners. As I mentioned, I pulled the head, blasted the cylinders, then dropped the pan and knocked the pistons up. I cut down an old axe handle that I could slip inside the piston wall to reach the base of the wrist pin. This worked well for most of them. One was really stubborn, so I took a length of 1" steel piper and hammered it flat so I could slide it up inside the piston to the wrist pin area. Worked like a charm. The last piston I moved was #4 and I left it connected to the crank a couple "waps" had it loose. We put it in gear and rocked it till the rings had cleared the rust. Spins easy with the crank now. Next I'll be removing a liner to get measurements for a rebuild kit.

RC Brooks · Sep 6, 2013

Regarding setting the pistons on fire, take some old rags, dip them in kerosene and set them in your cylinders. Light them on fire and let them burn. Rust breaks down under heat and the expansion and contraction also contribute. It may not work as well if the bottom of your liners are rusted but it works great if the rust is just between the liners and piston walls.

Here's a couple pics of the Farmall B

Blackriver

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old

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