ill start at the begining, cub quit about 2 weeks ago, i found i didnt have any fire at the coil, magneto ignition, 48 cub] the coil was cracked, and covered in oil. i got a new coil, decided while i was there id replace the points and condenser, now i have fire at the coil, but nothing comming out of the cap, the points are gapped at 13 thousanths, per the original manual,im pretty sure nothing is grounded inside, im thinking a bad new condenser, cap is new too, anything else to look for?
- Thread starter ericlb
- Start date
gene bender
Well-known Member
When you replaced the points did you get the rotor out of time. Make a mark onthe body of the mag where the tower is for the wire going to the plug is then remove the cap and watch where the rotor stops to impulse the rotor needs to be lined up there.
MarkinOhio
Member
- Location
- Ohio
I'm assuming when you say that you're getting"fire at the coil" you're refering to the high voltage lug on the coil itself and that you do have high voltage there. The coil cover has a flat metal spring that must make contact with that lug when it is installed. From there of course it goes by way of the high voltage coil wire to the center of the distributor cap and then to the 4 spark plug wires in the proper order. I can't tell from your post what you mean when you say that nothing is comming out of the cap. The coil cover cap with just one high voltage wire or the actual distributor cap with the coil wire and 4 spark plug wires? If you're actually getting high voltage at the coil but nothing comming out of the coil cover cap make sure the spring is making contact with the coil lug. If you're getting high voltage out of the coil cover but not to the distributor cap I would change the high voltage coil wire. If you're getting high voltage to the center terminal of the distributor cap but nothing out to the spark plugs check that the carbon rod in the center of the distributor cap is making contact with the distributor rotor and that the rotor is good. Distributor cap not cracked? All 4 terminals good? Spark plug wires made of solid wire and in good shape?
im getting fire when i pull the coil wire out of the terminal on the coil cover, i wasnt before so i fixed that, but im not getting fire out of the distrubutor cap, cap is new ,wires are solid core and new, plugs are new, points and condenser are new as is the coil
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
You must have an automotive style coil mounted on the outside of the coil. The internal coil doesnt have oil in it. If it is inside, and was covered with oil, theres a problem somewhere, and probably why it wont fire now!
no outside coil, this cub is factory stock not sure where the oil came in from,i usually put 3 drops in the oil cup on the mag drive about every 3 weeks or so,im wondering now if i am over oiling that, this cub is a working tractor and runs most of the year . the coil, which i belive is the original one, was also cracked
teddy52food
Well-known Member
Time the rotor on the C mark.
ok i checked all you guys have posted, i did find the rotor out of time, how i did that i dont know but i did , so i retimed it like the manual says, the cub started right up and idled like it always did, so i went to mow with it, it made it 10 feet...once the mower was engauged, then shut down exactly like it did in the begining rapidly dropping the cylinders in less that 30 seconds, first thing i checked was the gas, i pulled the plug out of the bottom of the carb, its got fuel so thats not the problem, then i branked on the starter it acts like it will fire once in awhile on 1 cylinder, but it wont start i pulled a wire off the distributor cap, no fire, now when i begane awhile ago i had bright blue spark, so what can it be???? except for the rotor ita all new now from one end to the other, , coil, points condenser, cap, wires, plugs ect, its got compression in the engine, im at a loss i need this tractor running, but im about to scrap it if i cant fix it
teddy52food
Well-known Member
Try the old condenser. I have a tester and I find a lot of them are leaky right out of the box. Some are ok until they get warm. I won't put in a new condenser without testing it first, both cold and warm.
ok i just pulled the dist cap again i have the engine up on tdc, according to the pointer notch in the crank pulley, i removed the number 1 plug again before i did this and made sure number 1 was on the compression stroke, the last time i did this the rotor was pointing at number 1 terminal on the cap which it should be, now its pointing at number 2, how is that even mechanicly possible? i give up the rotor is not loose on its shaft and the engine was never turned with the mag off the engine i know that for sure
get an old spark plug, solder an insulated wire to the metal base, put an alligator clamp on the free end. pull coil wire from distributor cap. insert spark plug in free end of distributor wire, ground alligator clip and turn engine. if you have a spark, problem is in distributor.
i got this thing running, it mowed for about a hour then backfired several times and died with no aparent reason, im down to trying another new rotor, im thinking the one i have must be spinning on the shaft its the only thing that makes sence isnt it? if it runs for awhile then changes all of the sudden, it cant be something mechanical in the engine or it wouldnt start at all
screwstick
Member
Sounds more like valves hanging up to me.
There is a gear in that magneto that can wear out. It has been a while but I believe it was the smaller of the two gears,the gear on the rotor shaft, that was worn. Maybe had to get the whole shaft.
Correction: I maybe had that all wrong. I looked on the I-H parts breakdown on Messick's and it did not look like I remember. I thought it was an I-H magneto. I will ask my dad, he is 88, and his memory is better than mine!
Found it on parts list, it was in an I-H battery ignition distributor, that was geared. Sorry.
Garry
Correction: I maybe had that all wrong. I looked on the I-H parts breakdown on Messick's and it did not look like I remember. I thought it was an I-H magneto. I will ask my dad, he is 88, and his memory is better than mine!
Found it on parts list, it was in an I-H battery ignition distributor, that was geared. Sorry.
Garry
john *.?-!.* cub owner
Well-known Member
On a J4 (cub) magneto, there is a gear molded on the back of the gear, and a small pinion gear that drives it, either can become worn enough to cause the rotor to get out of time.
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