butch49

Member
I have a farmall m and I started painting it with rustoleum sunrise red as I think it reminds me of the old farmalls that I started on. my question is has anyone used a hardener with rustoleum and if so what was the mix ratio,

carl
 
If it is not made to be used with hardener don't use hardener. You need supplied air for your lungs anyway. Some do use it but are taking a chance. In answer to the acetone--acetone is used as a thinner (right or wrong), hardener is used to make the paint cure faster. The two are not related. And, as to the thinner/reducer use what the can says to use.
 

Love that sunrise red. The red looks so pure. Not a hint of orange or pink or other additives in it. To me, it looks redder than red, if that makes any sense. That's what I'm also using. Is it available in quart or gallon cans? So far I've only used rattle cans on small parts. I still have the sheet metal to deal with later.
TIA

Patrick
'49M
 
I did a sample run using hardener in Rustoleum couple years ago. I put some hardener in black to see what would happen, well if ya want simi-gloss finish, it works fine..

Keith & Shawn(Gold medal winner)
 
does the acetone make it dry faster, I know that is what rustoleum suggests for a thinner. so is it like a hardener
 
Napa has two types of hardener, low solids for enamels, and high solids for urethane. I always paint with hardener, but use breathing air, the hardener is really hard on lungs.
 
I don't know why people think you need suppled air to use hardner, a good quality mask works fine, heck even use that for epoxy primer, just have to make sure you replace the filters periodically. But to answer your question; yes I have used hardener with Rustoleum paint, but not Red, I used it with their Gray on a 2N Ford, the hardener made it very slick and shined like crazy, but the paint faded very quickly and alot (looks like primer now.) One of the BIG reasons for using hardner is to make the paint last longer, and it certainly didn't in this case, since it does seem to make the OEM paints: Deere and IH last well I assume it was the paint so have never used Rustoleum again. As far as the hardner goes, if you look at the type of paint; ie. synthetic enamel, ya can get hardener for that type about anywhere: TSC, AutoZone, Colours...
One thing I will say is that when I redo a tractor, I often use cheaper paint to do the areas that will be hidden once assembled, and just to powder in those real hard to get to areas, so when I shoot with the better paint I don't have to keep shooting one little area just to get it green, or red or what ever. Usually I grab some TSC stuff for this. When I was putting our '48 JD A back together this spring, I went to TSC and they had that new "Majic" stuff, I grabbed some JD green, was so impressed with how easy it sprayed, and how good it looked, I went back and bought a gallon and some hardener and shot the whole tractor. WOW is it easy to work with, and it shines like crazy, pulled it up next to the JD 70 which was the last one I shot, and ya cannot tell it from JD Classic Green! The test will be how long it lasts, as that crap TSC had before lasted about a week before fading, but it's been 2-3 months and so far so good! Of course I used JD yellow on the wheels...just seen too many nasty looking JD wheels to tangle with any other.
Yell at me when you go to do the rims on your IH, I have a Toyota paint number that is spot on for that original look!
 
I don't know the chemistry of it but it would seem that faster drying would add shine and hardness. This is basically what a hardener does.
 
(quoted from post at 21:38:17 07/01/13) I don't know why people think you need suppled air to use hardner, a good quality mask works fine, heck even use that for epoxy primer, just have to make sure you replace the filters periodically...

isocyanates

Read the package on your mask. You will answer your own question.
 
In addition to what Jim and others have said, let's talk Rustoleum right out of the can.

It is a good finish, BUT, requires either a hardener OR to bake the item. I am using Rustoleum, gloss black on many small parts for the 1949 KBS5 that I am restoring. I have a process where they get cleaned, acid etch prime, primed, then color coat. I let them dry for 2-3 hours, then they get baked for 1 hour at 250.

Finish and hardness is very good. Do NOT use heavy coats. 2 lights coats, with 3-4 min flash time between coats. Let dry. Then bake. Works well, but you are limited to what you can fit into the oven.

PS. I have an old electric oven in the shop for lots of purposes. Ventilation is also a must.
 
(quoted from post at 21:56:43 07/02/13) You, and anyone else considering using hardener and a simple filter mask, need to read this thread. If you want the abbreviated version, just read JGTOOLS posts. It should adequately scare you.

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39149

Oh you know it will never happen to THEM! They're using a mask and painting outside or they have a fan running or something... They'll be fiiiiiiiine.
 

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