1952 H

PretendFarmer · Jun 28, 2013

What causes brakes to hang up? When I drive it around, it is obvious that the brakes are hung up.

PretendFarmer · Jun 28, 2013

Also, what can anyone tell me about this tractor? Here is the serial plate.

D Slater · Jun 28, 2013

1950 model that came with low speed gears.
Oil on the shoes, adjustments off, sticking linkage, brake material coming loose from the metal or return spring bad or missing.

Super-H-Mike · Jun 28, 2013

Or rust....

Wayne in MN · Jun 28, 2013

Band brake tips-H & M
Remove the pins holding the brake adjuster to the pedal & actuating lever. Loosen & lube them.
Remove the cap screws holding the brake cover; wiggle it & they should come off.
Note or draw a diagram of how the brake band is attached to the cam. Turn the cover over, shake, tap or whatever to get the 2 pins out. If you remove the outer lever & half-moon key the whole thing comes out.
Replace the band & be sure the brake cam pivot shaft works freely in the cover. Oil or grease the pivot the area well and let the excess drip off before installing the new bands.
Remove the brake drum; do not try to remove the bolted-on housing containing the seal. The bull gear inside the transmission has to be removed first to get the housing out.
Using punches, chisels, etc. collapse the old seal inward, if original; it is difficult but will succumb to persistent efforts. Replace with 2 seals per side and place some chassis grease in-between them to protect the outer one from drying out. Polish the sealing surface on the brake drum and re-assemble.
Place a small amount of grease in the hole where the brake pivot goes into the transmission housing. After installing the bands & getting the pedal free-play to about 1", apply the brakes firmly, lock them in place and adjust the set-screw on the bottom side of the cover. (helps to loosen any adjustable parts BEFORE re-assembly) Loosen the jam nut, turn the set-screw in until it touches the brake band, back out 1/2 turn & lock the jam nut. This helps prevent the brake band from dragging, premature wear, and overheating.

dej(Jed) · Jun 28, 2013

I have 348936x1a here in Pa.

mhb@ufe · Jun 28, 2013

The serial number is 1950, the X1 is high compression gasoline engine and if I remember correctly the A is for lower gear ratio.

Mark

PretendFarmer · Jun 28, 2013

(quoted from post at 18:11:31 06/28/13) Band brake tips-H & M
Remove the pins holding the brake adjuster to the pedal & actuating lever. Loosen & lube them.
Remove the cap screws holding the brake cover; wiggle it & they should come off.
Note or draw a diagram of how the brake band is attached to the cam. Turn the cover over, shake, tap or whatever to get the 2 pins out. If you remove the outer lever & half-moon key the whole thing comes out.
Replace the band & be sure the brake cam pivot shaft works freely in the cover. Oil or grease the pivot the area well and let the excess drip off before installing the new bands.
Remove the brake drum; do not try to remove the bolted-on housing containing the seal. The bull gear inside the transmission has to be removed first to get the housing out.
Using punches, chisels, etc. collapse the old seal inward, if original; it is difficult but will succumb to persistent efforts. Replace with 2 seals per side and place some chassis grease in-between them to protect the outer one from drying out. Polish the sealing surface on the brake drum and re-assemble.
Place a small amount of grease in the hole where the brake pivot goes into the transmission housing. After installing the bands & getting the pedal free-play to about 1", apply the brakes firmly, lock them in place and adjust the set-screw on the bottom side of the cover. (helps to loosen any adjustable parts BEFORE re-assembly) Loosen the jam nut, turn the set-screw in until it touches the brake band, back out 1/2 turn & lock the jam nut. This helps prevent the brake band from dragging, premature wear, and overheating.

I will give all this a shot. Having never worked on any of this before, most of the instructions here dont make alot of sense to me. I will have to start working on it, taking pictures along the way.

Dennis K (WA) · Jun 28, 2013

A set of books would be a good start. Binderbooks is a good place to get them. Parts coverage available on line at caseih web site.
Good luck and have fun with it.
Dennis

PretendFarmer · Jul 1, 2013

So it had a miss in it. Couldnt figure out why it sounded like a John Deere. Has 125psi compression on all four, spark, gas etc. When I pulled the spark plugs off the cylinders one by one, the engine would only run rough on #3. Turns out that the valve lash was way loose on #3. So I adjusted the valves and she runs great. It appears that they did a great job rebuilding it but for whatever reason the valves were not adjusted properly.

johndeere720diesel · Jul 1, 2013

Please dear god secure the tractor better from here on out when you haul it. It's people like you that are causing increased pressure from the DOT on the rest of us. And I'm sure you don't want to be responsible for killing someone if it where to fall off. Sorry rant over. Looks like a pretty decent little H

PretendFarmer · Jul 3, 2013

(quoted from post at 00:28:45 07/02/13) Please dear god secure the tractor better from here on out when you haul it. It's people like you that are causing increased pressure from the DOT on the rest of us. And I'm sure you don't want to be responsible for killing someone if it where to fall off. Sorry rant over. Looks like a pretty decent little H

Please dear god shut up. The tractor was well secured. I'm not an idiot.

1952 H

PretendFarmer

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PretendFarmer

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D Slater

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Super-H-Mike

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Wayne in MN

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dej(Jed)

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mhb@ufe

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PretendFarmer

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Dennis K (WA)

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PretendFarmer

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johndeere720diesel

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