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Farmall Super A hydrualics getting hot very hot!

C

chad from michigan

Member
I will start out by saying I do not know if the hydraulics were getting hot before I started this project.
I started out by installing a IH-1000 loader and I noticed the pump was getting super hot and the loader has no lift power it will lift but no power.
In the process of ruling things out my dad and I hooked it back up to factory and were going to work our way out to the loader. Dad called said it was back to factory setup and it got hotter then when the loader was hooked up I am guessing because the loader has more hyd fluid capacity.
ok what can cause the pump and hydraulics to get super hot.
could it be the pump? new seals in it now, filter screen in touch control? hyd lines are clear I had to pull it off to remove a pipe plug to hook up loader hydraulics and cleaned them at that time. I thought it was the loader and bypass block causing the issues but its not. back to factory set-up what can cause the loader to get hot and not have lift power other then just going through the motions?
Thanks
 
I am pretty sure you tried moving the levers to different positions so will assume that is not the problem. You should be able to detect a noticeable load on engine if it is getting hot. What I would do first is take the plug out of the back of the reservoir control valve back plate. Under that plug you should find a screwdriver slotted orfice. Take it out and see if screen is plugged and or orfice plugged. That is what directs oil to regulator valve to return system to low pressure. If the arms respond to movement of the levers I believe your problem is related to this orfice or the regulator piston inside the box.
 
Thanks for the great suggestions I will check them out. It does seem like that when I move the control levers it almost seems like they want to keep moving after I get the postions of all the way forward and all the way back. I will try to look at both suggestions tonight.
 
2 things. Is there enough hydraulic fluid in the system? Second item, is the bypass valve stuck or sticky? I am not totally familiar with these systems, but in general, on any hydraulic setup, if the bypass valve is set too high or sticking, the system will heat up, and heat up fast.
 
Tom
It has the correct fluid level that has been checked many times. I am also not familiar with the inner working of the system but I can work on it with help. I will hope to find something soon and let you know I will also look at the parts diagram and see if I can find what you describe. I hope I don't have to tear this thing completly down.
 
Those should be open center hydraulics, I would make sure control valve is open center. The motor should load down if producing that much heat.
 
I never saw a Super A with anything but a touch control hydraulic system. You can add the aux valve as I assumed he did and took it all back off. Therefore, you are dealing with a closed center touch control system that when the rockshaft reached predetermined position, the spool in valve closed port to the orfice controlling the regulator valve and thus the fluid going through the orfice moves the regulator piston which in turn opens the bypass ball valve and system operates on low pressure.
 
Ok we tore the battery out and removed theback of the touch control that is when I found the orfice you were talking about and saw what plug to remove to get to it. the orfice was plug with a piece of metal. We put it all back together and it seems to be running the hydraulics much longer and better but it seemed like it was starting to get hot right before I ran out of gas and had to go home lol! I wonder if it got hot from moving it up and down. It picked up me 240 lbs no problem and then my son and I maybe 320lbs total it only picked us up about 2 feet and would not lift any higher. then it started to act a little funny and then ran out of gas. Maybe it was getting hot again but not like before. when it shut down and we were lowering the bucket the fluid ran out of the vent. I am sure it is still trying to get all the air out of the system and oil expanded as it got hot. Should I check the orphice again to see if there was more crud in there?
thanks for the help we are making a lot of progress!
 
The orfice should have about a two inch long screen attached to it to prevent plugging. Usually the screen collapses over time from crud but if it is not broken you can cut bottom off, clean it out and roll end up. Sounds like yours does not have the screen anymore and I am sure it will plug again.
 

Do you think the screen pulled off and is stuck in there still causing problems? yes there was no screen and there was a piece of metal stuck in the orfice hole.
 
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