SC starter ring-gear replacement

The "55 SC starter always engaged very hard. Now the teeth of the ring gear show the effects. First question: why does the starter slam in so hard? Second question: Having never replaced a ring gear, what book or manual will show me exactly how to proceed with the removal and replacement?
 
for replacement - are you asking how to get TO it - or just how to replace the gear itself?

If the latter, just apply heat. The ring expands with heat and pops off - reverse the process to put the new one on.

Getting TO the ring is obviously much more involved...
 
What do you mean "slams?" That's how starters work. After 60 years of starting, the ring gears generally do show some wear. Perfectly normal. Replace it and it will last another 60 years.

Tractor needs to be split, and the flywheel removed, to replace the ring gear.

The old ring gear is cut off with a cutting torch. The new ring gear is heated, either with a torch or in an oven, so it expands enough to slide over the flywheel.

Unfortunately there is no book that will show you "exactly" how to do this yourself. Back when this tractor was new, the dealer mechanics did most of the major work, and they had training.
 
A new style drive pinion (from this site or other sources with a cushion rather than the big spring might do the trick unless your teeth are less than 50% remaining. Jim
 
drive the old ring gear off with a large punch and hammer and heat the new ring gear and it wil fall on. if your wife isn't home heat it in her oven. it's better to heat it evenly than with a torch.
 
Like the others point out, the hard part is splitting the tractor. After removing the flywheel replacing the ring is a snap:

1 - Heat the old ring gear lightly - a propane torch will be sufficient. The warmed gear will slip easily off the flywheel with a few light taps.

2 - Heat the new ring gear 15 minutes in a 400 deg oven. (Tip: this best done while your wife is off somewhere.)

3 - Now set the hot ring gear in place on the flywheel. It will grab tightly as it cools.
 
(quoted from post at 01:01:17 05/13/13) The "55 SC starter always engaged very hard. Now the teeth of the ring gear show the effects. First question: why does the starter slam in so hard? Second question: Having never replaced a ring gear, what book or manual will show me exactly how to proceed with the removal and replacement?

Is this the same tractor that caused you to ask essentially the same question 6 months ago and prompted this reply?

(quoted from post at 05:05:41 11/29/12)
(quoted from post at 23:59:55 11/28/12) On one SC I have removed the starter and observed the ring or flywheel gear. This SC has 6V battery and generator. The teeth on the flywheel gear look like new. On another SC, I removed the starter and looked at the flywheel gear. This SC has 12V battery with alternator. The front of the teeth on the flywheel gear are badly worn down. It appears that about 1/4 of the width of the teeth has been chewed off. Is this condition due to using a 12V alternator/battery on a 6V starter?

Something I'm [u:7ed1c03a4c]very[/u:7ed1c03a4c] familiar with! Yes it most likely is due to the 12V. system, IF you did not change the field windings in the starter to 12v. when it was changed over. I have a 240U (same C-123 engine) that did the same thing. Starter drive would not engage the flywheel starter ring every time, would grind 2-3-4 times and finally engege almost every time I started it. Starter finally quit and when I took it to my local auto-electric guy, I told him how it had acted for years before it quit. He said the starter is spinning too fast before it engages so he installed 12v. windings in it when he repaired it and now it not only engages every time, but it starts quicker. Cost about $75 on top of the regular repair, so about $175 total, but it sure works great now.
 
I replaced my drive with the new style, it is quiet even with 12V starting. The old style really bangs in there.
 
That's about all that's left. Since it slams in so hard it won't be long until it just sets and spins. Thanks, I'll look into your suggestion as I sure don't want to go to the work of installation when it only gets started a dozen times a year.
 
I've put several ring gears on over the years and I usually just heat evenly with a torch to remove the ring gear and then do the same to put the new one back on. It doesn't need to be cherry red, just warm. Keep making slow circles with the torch and they will move. I also use a hammer and a brass punch and gently tap on the old one to remove it and tap on the new one to make for sure it is fully seated.
 
Yes, it was the "involved" part that I was questioning. I was curious if there was a manual available that would show me how to split the tractor. I need to know what tools will be required before I start. Thanks.
 
"Not having 12V windings in the starter?"

Sorry, but what a bunch of BALONEY!

I have helped convert FIVE tractors, not a single one has this so-called "slamming" issue. Standard 6V starters on all but one. One of them has the special Central Tractor "high torque" starter on it, even. On 12V that high torque starter really wings the engine over.

Nah, your ring gear is shot. New ring gear and a new clutch-type starter drive will solve your problems.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top