Hey RustyFarmall!

Wondering if you still rebuild carbs?

If so could you drop me an email on the details? I have one for a SH that is giving me nothing but problems. Have rebuilt myself but tractor still wont run right...randomly dies or needs choke. I just finished lining the fuel tank and have good fuel flow. This is the carb that had the bent choke plate and broken jet inside when I got it.

Need a professionals help!
 
(quoted from post at 17:30:25 05/04/13) Wondering if you still rebuild carbs?

If so could you drop me an email on the details? I have one for a SH that is giving me nothing but problems. Have rebuilt myself but tractor still wont run right...randomly dies or needs choke. I just finished lining the fuel tank and have good fuel flow. This is the carb that had the bent choke plate and broken jet inside when I got it.

Need a professionals help!

By broken jet do you mean the main metering stem? Did you install a new one?

Did you remove the fuel inlet fitting and clean that fine mesh screen that is soldered onto it?

Are the floats centered in the fuel bowls so they do not rub and have full, free movement?

Are you sure it is a carburetor problem and not an ignition problem?

I am officially retired and no longer in business, but I'm willing to help if you can't figure it out. My email is open in the modern version.
 
I see, well hopefully you are enjoying retirement!
Any help or thoughts you have would be
appreciated, I"ve never had this much trouble and
am at a loss at this point.

Yes the idle metering jet was broken off. I
drilled out what was left of it, chased the
threads and installed a new one.

Yes fuel inlet screen was removed and
cleaned...entire carb was disassembled and cleaned
when I rebuilt.

As best I can tell, the float has free travel and
is not binding or rubbing on anything. I did have
trouble with the needle sticking (rubber tipped as
that is all I can fins). 3rd one I tried finally
seemed to work.

The venturi was a little beat up, looks like its
been dropped a few times before. Anyway tractor
runs a little rough at idle, slightly better with
idle adjusting screw all the way in. Tractor lacks
power in 4th/5th gear, and also just randomly dies
after its warmed up. Starts right back up after it
dies with no choke. I have verified good fuel flow
from the tank and adjusted the governor. Also
checked for manifold/gasket leaks while tractor
was running with propane torch.

My dad still thinks its a carb problem, at this
point I am thinking ignition. Not sure what to
start checking though...everything is new - plugs,
wires, points, condenser, coil, alternator,
battery and cables and wiring.
 
"-- slightly better with
idle adjusting screw all the way in."

That is a sign that your carb is not clean. Also, 5th does not have much power anyway, it is direct drive and not geared down. When you say less power in 4th, is that pulling nothing or with a load? The 6+ mph for 4th means it is not really a tillage gear. Also the carbs on the SH thru the 560 give max power with the main jet screw 5 turns out, it is not adjusted like the non Super H and M.
 
Wont start off in 4th or 5th gear without the choke out. Once moving choke can be pushed in and it will continue just fine, until it starts to die. This is with no load, just the bare tractor. Main jet screw on the bottom, front of the carb (towards governor) is set 5 turns out currently, although I usually only set them about 3 turns for better economy as mine are not hard workers.

Have the carb off now and will clean again and hope for better results. Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 21:24:37 05/05/13) Wont start off in 4th or 5th gear without the choke out. Once moving choke can be pushed in and it will continue just fine, until it starts to die. This is with no load, just the bare tractor. Main jet screw on the bottom, front of the carb (towards governor) is set 5 turns out currently, although I usually only set them about 3 turns for better economy as mine are not hard workers.

Have the carb off now and will clean again and hope for better results. Thanks!

Use a can of aerosol carb cleaner. NOT brake cleaner. Stick the nozzle into every orifice, and passage you can find on that carb and spray until it comes through somewhere else, and then stick the nozzle into where the spray came out and spray again. Pay special attention to the brass jet down in the bottom where the load screw fits. There is an area in behind there that SOMETIMES fills up with crud and is very difficult to remove.

When you think you have it clean, blow compressed air into each and every hole there is. If the carb IS clean, the compressed air WILL exit through another hole somewhere. If it doesn't, you are not yet done with cleaning.

Where abouts in Iowa are you?
 
Will do! Just talked with Matt at Motec Eng about
it and he gave my a few things to try as well. I
would have sworn In had it clean from the
beginning but hopefully I missed something.

Central IA, right around Des Moines.
 
(quoted from post at 13:36:31 05/06/13) Will do! Just talked with Matt at Motec Eng about
it and he gave my a few things to try as well. I
would have sworn In had it clean from the
beginning but hopefully I missed something.

Central IA, right around Des Moines.

You are about 2 hours or less from me.
 
(quoted from post at 16:24:24 05/06/13) Where are you at? If I don't get it figured out, I
may have to pay you a visit!

Send me an email. If you go to the modern version, my email is open.

Apparently YT has that part of it all messed up, so here's my email.
[email protected]
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top