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Carb kit

H

Harrison58

Member
On my farmall h I'm doing a carb rebuild and the instructions with the kit leave something to be desired. Can anyone help me on this or or lead me to a web site or something to clear things up, these instructions have no pictures and I'm unclear of all the parts names. Thanks,
 
Here"s previous advice how to adjust things;

Make sure the float isn"t sticking or touching the insides of the float chamber. Some previous advice was to use a Dremel tool and smooth the insides of the float chamber so it doesn"t rub or touch. Pretty important. Set the float so the top of it rests 1 27/32" above the flat surface of the float chamber.
Initial settings as follows to get it started;
Main fuel adjusting screw, big screw facing down at an angle, towards the rear, at the bottom of the carb; 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. This main screw turns clock-wise for leaner mixture.
Idle fuel-mixture screw, smaller screw facing forwards, on upper left-hand side of carb; 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. This idle screw turns counter-clockwise for leaner.
Idle speed screw, faces outboard, at the top of the carb; set for 450 rpm, and make sure the governor correctly engages the slot.
Get the engine warmed up, and idling.
Turn OUT the idle fuel-mixture screw until rough running, then turn in until it idles smooth. (Mine is set at 1 turn open.)
Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. As I say, mine sits at 1 turn open. (Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.)
Should rev up smoothly and evenly.
Too Lean = stumble, sputter, damaged melted plugs.
Correct = tan plugs.
Too Rich = back smoke, black sooty plugs.
 
Is it the original Zenith or a Marvel Shebler only the dual fuel ones had a mixture at the bottom of the bowl. Must have a cheap kit that doesent have clear instructions. Is the new needls have a rubber tip or is it steel and is it the same length as the ols one. How are the bushings in the throtle shaft and does it have a new throttle shaft.
 
Thingamajig and whozamawhatsit are perfectly acceptable terms. You don't need to know what things are called, just match up the old parts with the new parts and replace like-for-like.

"Gasket" covers 90% of the parts anyway.
 
(quoted from post at 00:20:34 05/02/13) Here"s previous advice how to adjust things;

Make sure the float isn"t sticking or touching the insides of the float chamber. Some previous advice was to use a Dremel tool and smooth the insides of the float chamber so it doesn"t rub or touch. Pretty important. Set the float so the top of it rests 1 27/32" above the flat surface of the float chamber.
Initial settings as follows to get it started;
Main fuel adjusting screw, big screw facing down at an angle, towards the rear, at the bottom of the carb; 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. This main screw turns clock-wise for leaner mixture.
Idle fuel-mixture screw, smaller screw facing forwards, on upper left-hand side of carb; 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. This idle screw turns counter-clockwise for leaner.
Idle speed screw, faces outboard, at the top of the carb; set for 450 rpm, and make sure the governor correctly engages the slot.
Get the engine warmed up, and idling.
Turn OUT the idle fuel-mixture screw until rough running, then turn in until it idles smooth. (Mine is set at 1 turn open.)
Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. As I say, mine sits at 1 turn open. (Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.)
Should rev up smoothly and evenly.
Too Lean = stumble, sputter, damaged melted plugs.
Correct = tan plugs.
Too Rich = back smoke, black sooty plugs.
Click to expand...

I have rebuilt a BUNCH of H carburetors, and I mean a bunch. I have NEVER felt the need to resort to something as drastic as the use of a dremel tool to smooth up the fuel bowl. Those carburetors have been in use for 60 to 70 years now and none have ever been even close to a dremel tool. Why would anyone think it is a good idea now?
 
Be sure the idle air jet is clean! IF you cannot remove it, take a copper wire strand & poke through the jet. one strand of tail light wire works great and there is no damage to the internal jet using copper wire.
I use brake cleaner(carb cleaner leaves a slight residue) to spray through all passages followed by compressed air for final cleaning.
 
Thanks for all the help everyone. I got it put back together now just got to get everything set! It was great to hear it run after 15 years of sitting! Thanks agin
 
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