Topic: Re: Carb kit
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Here"s previous advice how to adjust things;
Make sure the float isn"t sticking or touching the insides of the float chamber. Some previous advice was to use a Dremel tool and smooth the insides of the float chamber so it doesn"t rub or touch. Pretty important. Set the float so the top of it rests 1 27/32" above the flat surface of the float chamber.
Initial settings as follows to get it started;
Main fuel adjusting screw, big screw facing down at an angle, towards the rear, at the bottom of the carb; 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. This main screw turns clock-wise for leaner mixture.
Idle fuel-mixture screw, smaller screw facing forwards, on upper left-hand side of carb; 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. This idle screw turns counter-clockwise for leaner.
Idle speed screw, faces outboard, at the top of the carb; set for 450 rpm, and make sure the governor correctly engages the slot.
Get the engine warmed up, and idling.
Turn OUT the idle fuel-mixture screw until rough running, then turn in until it idles smooth. (Mine is set at 1 turn open.)
Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. As I say, mine sits at 1 turn open. (Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.)
Should rev up smoothly and evenly.
Too Lean = stumble, sputter, damaged melted plugs.
Correct = tan plugs.
Too Rich = back smoke, black sooty plugs.
Re: Carb kit in reply to FBH44, 05-02-2013 00:20:34
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I have rebuilt a BUNCH of H carburetors, and I mean a bunch. I have NEVER felt the need to resort to something as drastic as the use of a dremel tool to smooth up the fuel bowl. Those carburetors have been in use for 60 to 70 years now and none have ever been even close to a dremel tool. Why would anyone think it is a good idea now?
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