F-20 Block question

pdinius001

New User
I am going to go look at a parts block. How do I tell if the sleeves are any good? What should I be looking for? Thanks for your help
 
Sleeves need to nave no ridge that you can feel with a fingernail to be considered reasonable to use. The use a a small square of 320 grit paper, and a bore gauge of the correct range is needed. If it seems to have little ridge, (measured or felt where the top piston ring stops on the up stroke) then measure the actual taper. Sand the unworn area above the ring wear, and measure it for diameter (4 ways across and carefully) then measure the same directions lower where the rings stop. If the difference is less than .005" it will be OK. If less than .002" they are pretty good. If more than .005" they are worn and will use oil. Ridge ream the top of the sleeve if you decide to own it, or you will break the pistons or crack something taking them out. Tiny pits from rust that are pepper grain size make little difference. bigger pits that will take a sharpened pencil point are not acceptable. Obviously cracks or broken spigots (bottom end of sleeve) are a show stopper. Sleeves are modest in cost, So use care in deciding to use marginal used parts. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 18:12:35 04/03/13) I am going to go look at a parts block. How do I tell if the sleeves are any good? What should I be looking for? Thanks for your help

Do you need a block, or do you need sleeves? If you need sleeves call Alderson Tractor and get new ones. They are not too expensive and you'll know they are good.
http://www.aldersontractor.com/
 
the pistons have to go out the bottom on an F-20 so the ridge won't be an issue for removal, but if they have much of a ridge, you should pass on them. If Aldersons have new sleeves, that would be the way to go, otherwisw used will be what you get. They are wet sleeves so in addition to the inside surface, make sure to look at the bottom of the sleeve to make sure it was not broken on removal and that the surface where it seals to the O-ring in the block is not pitted to the point it won't seal and leak water into the oil. Keep in mind these things are 75 years old, they don't have to be perfect to function. The F-series engines are pretty forgiving, no CNC machines back then, clearances were more, and a few pits won't bother it a bit.
 

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